On the Sunnyside of the Street

Suddenly It's Summer

2011-05-30T13:13:00.000-07:00

It's Memorial Day 2011. A scorcher in New York City, around 92 in the shade. A lazy day if there ever was one, which was devoted to a massive pile of newspapers and stacks of new books. On the menu is Rock Shrimp with garlic, parsley, and tomatoes - sauteed in olive oil, and served with a toasted french baguette, drizzled with olive oil.

Read a great article about the Negroni being a "foolproof cocktail" in the Weekend Wall Street Journal. The key is the easy 1-1-1 ratio: equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari. Even the lamest of bartenders in the lowliest of dives can get that right. Not only is the Negroni potent, it's also very refreshing, and a cool summer cocktail.

Happy Hour at Claret

2011-04-12T05:39:00.001-07:00

A fantastic happy hour deal is now bringing in the crowds to Claret Wine Bar on Skillman Avenue in Sunnyside. A bottle of wine and a 3-course platter of meat and/or cheese OR a plain pizza can now be had for $19.95 - Monday thru Friday, 5-7pm and on Saturdays, 3-5pm. The wines on special rotate, but most recently I had a superb Gascon Malbec from Argentina, and an interesting - and very drinkable - Pinot Noir/Shiraz from C'est La Vie Vin de Pays d'Oc from Languedoc, France. Personally, I think the selection of cheeses and meats are the way to go; as the simple plain pizza leaves a lot to be desired.

Trudy's Mexican Martini

2011-03-11T06:01:00.000-08:00

Direct from Austin, here is my twist on a marvelous recipe for Trudy's famous Mexican Martini. It's served not only at Trudy's, but in other restaurant and bars around Austin.

2 fluid ounces tequila (Herrdaura Silver)
1 fluid ounce Cointreau liqueur
1 -2 fluid ounce Sprite
1 lime, juice of

Shake all ingredients and strain into glass rimmed with salt; add stuffed olives.

The original recipe calls for an additional splash of orange juice, but I leave it out. This a very smooth and refreshing cocktail, and goes great with guacamole and chips and loud Texas music.

LYON BOUCHON MODERNE in the West Village

2011-03-06T14:32:00.001-08:00

The new French restaurant in the old Cafe de Bruxelles location in Greenwich Village is classically Lyonnias, and my first visit there on Saturday night was a great success. The restaurant has been made-over, but the three-room space is still in tact, with a window-filled bar area, and a small room off the door that leads in to the main dining room. Bruxelles was showing its age in recent years and the new owners have cleaned up the place considerably, adding wooden booths and a darker interior, and classic red-checkered tables.

Lyon Bouchon Moderne serves classic bouchon fare with a few modern twists. On the menu is Soupe à l’Oignon, a Beef Brisket and Onion Soup with Marrow Jam and Sourdough Rye; Escargots with Garlic Sausage and Watercress Risotto; Diver Scallops; and Lamb Shank with White Bean Stew and Merguez Sausage. There are also nightly specials, such as the Mussels and Frites ($21), which was delectable. The appetizer special was a lovely trio of Endive, Speck, and Lyonnais cheese dip (cervelle de canut). Other dishes we sampled were a stunning brussels sprouts hash with cippolini onions and bacon(addictively superb), and pike quennelles in a lobster sauce. Next time at Lyon, however, I'll be having that Lyon Hot Dog I saw being served. It's a foot-long Brooklyn weiner with black truffle and served on a pretzel roll with sauerkraut and mustard - my mouth watered every time it passed by.

The wine list is unabashedly French, and heavy on the classic bouchon varieties, including Cotes Du Rhone and Beaujolais along. We found a delicious cru Beaujolais: Chateau de Pizay Morgon 2009 for $36, served - correctly - slightly chilled.

Lyon also has an open atmosphere - quite busy and bustling when I was there, and the French waitstaff were very professional and genial. Our waiter was terrific, and shook my hand as we got up to leave, as did the two hosts at the door. It's not so hard being nice to customers, is it? Lyon is at 118 Greenwich Ave. near West 13th St.

p.s. There's also some buzz about the monumental "Hangover Brunch" being served on the weekends, so I'll be back to Lyon in the not too distant future.

LILLIE'S VICTORIAN PUB near Union Square

2011-03-02T12:33:00.000-08:00

As we head in to the annual St. Patrick's Day wind-up in New York, time to look at a few of the newer Irish-themed pubs around the town.

Lillie's on 17th street, just west of Union Square, opened in 2009. It's a handsome Victorian room with high ceilings, an antique, carved-wood bar, and furnishings that were acquired from a Victorian mansion in Belfast. The long bar is impressive and inviting, and when the lights aren't up high, Lillie's is a very atmospheric place for a drink. The name comes from Lillie Langtry, a 19th century celebrity: "an acknowledged beauty of her era, an A-list guest, an actress, a model, mistress to the future king of England, and an inspiration for poetry and plays by Oscar Wilde."

The bartenders I met were from Ireland, and they were efficient, friendly, and in one case, quite generous. Beware of the food - this is what gives the term "gastropub" a bad name. It gets busy with an after-work crowd during the week; on the weekends it's mostly tourists and sports fans.
Good selection of draught beer (Guinness was decent), and a big selection of whiskey and spirits.

BICE on the BEACH

2011-02-22T13:39:00.000-08:00

All the locals in Miami Beach will tell you to avoid dining on Ocean Drive. That famous stretch where all the beautiful, and not so beautiful, people gather has had its share of good restaurants, but nothing ever lasts. The old standbys are really diners: News Cafe and Front Porch Cafe. And occasionally you'll luck in to a good night at other places, Cafe Milano, for one. And worse is the aggressive hustle from all the restaurants on the street, begging people to sit down for an overpriced and dining experience.

Bice Ristorante and Cafe, part of the Bice chain, has taken over at the Hotel Victor, and I'm happy to report that it is a big bright spot on Ocean Drive. There's a dining room and bar inside, but I prefer the outdoor cafe that sits a few feet off Ocean Drive with a great view of the passing parade and the beach. The menu is mostly Italian, but with a few nods to Florida. I recently had a delicious Sunday lunch of fish and chips - $9.99 - that was perfection on a plate. The steak salad (with mango salsa) also looked terrific.

Located at 11th & Ocean Drive, Bice at the Victor is a good place to take in South Beach in all its glory. Afterall, South Beach is all about the people-watching. The patio service is prompt, and although the cocktail prices are sky-high ($19 mojitos), somehow they are worth it. One can do worse, I think, with a twenty dollar bill.

David Wondrich's OLD GUY MARTINI

2011-01-21T09:16:00.001-08:00

I was reading a travel diary by David Wondrich, the mixologist, author, and Esquire drinks columnist, and came across his "Old Guy" martini recipe. Some times those extra dry martini's are just a bit too strong, especially if served in those big 5 oz martini glasses. Wondrich called for equal parts gin and vermouth, with a few dashes of orange bitters. Stirred and served cold. I tried it at home, and by God he's absolutely right. It looks a little orangey, but it's smooth and mild, and easy to drink. Bottoms up.

THREE for PIZZA

2011-01-03T12:14:00.001-08:00

There are some great pizza pies in New York city, and I've been visiting some new - new to me, anyway - pizza places in the West Village.

Keste Pizzeria and Vino

On busy Bleecker Street, Keste is serving some damn good pies. Neapolitan style with a thin crust and some great toppings. I found it best to keep it simple, and avoid those daily specials with three or four toppings. (Pictured on the left - prosicutto and argula).

Artichoke Basille

A tiny little storefront outlet just opened on Macdougal Street. It can fit 3 or 4 people at the most, so it's really just a takeaway. AB has been around NYC (East Village, Chelsea) for a few years and built up a big following for their generous slices of artichoke and crab pizza. They also have Margherita and Sicilian pies. The namesake pie is huge - thick, bready, and full of a super-creamy sauce enriched with butter and wine. The artichoke and crab flavors both come through, and while these pies can be a bit heavy-handed, they are undeniably delicious.

Spunto

This no-nonsense, no-frills pizza parlor is on Carmine Street, next door to the Irish pub Mister Dennehy's. They've got a gas-fired brick oven, serve inexpensive wine and beer, and turn out a pretty nice thin crust. Most of all, there is a wide range of toppings and combinations, from the Shroomtown (portobello, shiitake, button mushrooms, white-truffle oil) to ChixPotle (chipotle chicken, pineapple, and cilantro) to Salsiccia Dolce (marinara sauce and cheese, sweet Italian sausage, caramelized onions, fresh basil). Good stuff, cheap, but nothing worth venturing out of the neighborhood for.

JOHNNY V's in Fort Lauderdale

2010-12-30T11:48:00.000-08:00

Down in Ft. Lauderdale last week for a couple of dinners on Las Olas Boulevard. I still miss Mark's on Las Olas, the wonderful restaurant owned and operated by Mark Millitello, and that has given way to a dreadful restaurant called Solita, where the wallpaper is as bad as the food. The only nice thing I can say about that place is the rather spectacular push-up bustiers worn by the female staff.

The new star on Las Olas is Johnny Vinczencz, a renowned Florida chef, Food Network personality, and owner of Johnny V's. It's a bustling scene with a long front bar dominating the L-shaped room, with a rather tacky, unfinished back dining room. The bar scene is snazzy, with personable bartenders serving up cocktails and hefty glasses of wine from an impressive, California-centric wine list.

I started with Blue Corn Crusted Calamari, served with Spanish Sherry Aioli, Chipotle Lime Vinaigrette and a Tropical Fruit Salsa. It was excellent. For my entree, I went big: Braised Boneless Beef Short Rib, Whipped Drunken Goat Cheese Potatoes, Indiana Dan's Famous Onion Rings, Brussel Sprout Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette and Creamed Corn ($29). It was excellent, but the plate was enormous, and the food enormously rich. My companion had the Sage Grilled Florida Dolphin with Rock Shrimp Plantain Stuffing and Baby Green Beans and Carrots ($29) - cooked to perfection and beautifully served.

The menu at Johnny V's is nothing short of spectacular - completely over-the-top, to be honest. Every dish has multiple flavor combinationsand every plate is full. There's also an impressive cheese selection and flamboyant desert list.

FINE WINTER WINE: Domaine Barry Cotes du Rhone 2009

2010-12-17T08:40:00.000-08:00

My friend and occcasional wine consultant Alan tipped me off to this amazingly good - and amazingly priced - Cotes du Rhone. Domaine Barry is the real deal - a strightforward, easy to drink, red Rhone blend -that comes with a $7.99 per bottle price tag. It's a steal, and I'm well into my second case.

What I like about this wine is its versatility. It has good fruit and on the lighter side, but also has the rustic edge that is unmistakeable in Rhone varietals. Great for before, during, and after dinner.

Oxley Classic English Dry Gin

2010-12-12T17:24:00.001-08:00

I recently came across a new spirit: Oxley Classic English Dry Gin. It's a small batch gin, made in England, and only available in select markets in the U.S. Their gimmick is a "cold distillation process" and the use of hand selected botanicals to set it apart from many other gins on the market. It is noticeably a dry English gin but is brighter and softer than many others. Maybe a bit sweeter, too, and the juniper comes forward - I had it served in a cold, dry martini, and it was delicious. 47% alcohol, 94 proof, and it retails for around $50. Worth a try!

P.J. CLARKE'S: A New York State of Mind

2010-12-08T08:57:00.000-08:00

After all these years, P.J. Clarke's is a classic New York saloon that just keeps getting better and better. The bar is simply one of the best in Manhattan, no question about it. But like all good watering holes, it's all about the atmosphere. P.J. Clarke's manages to draw interesting people from near and far, whether they're European tourists or locals. Yes, it's always crowded, but I always seem to find a seat somehow. The bartenders, particulary Gerry on the dayshift weekdays, and Doug in the evening, are old-school and first rate. They serve me martinis with Plymouth gin and Manhattans with Michtners Rye, and they are perfect every time. There's a full menu and big dining room in back (even an oyster bar now) but the smart money has it on the cheeseburger and french fries - truly delicious and never disappoints. The jukebox is one of the best in New York - I loved it when Sinatra or Bennett are swinging loud and proud, but when it's my turn, I'll usually play Roy Orbison, just to hear the crowd sing along. No matter how often I drop in, it never seems to be often enough.

Alton Brown Still Likes GOOD EATS

2010-12-05T05:04:00.001-08:00

Ran in to Alton Brown at Sur La Table the other day. We worked together back in the old days at Stewart, Tabori & Chang when his first book I'm Just Here for the Food was published, promoted and eventually went on to win a James Beard Foundation Cookbook Award. Alton's profile has risen considerably since then, with more books, more tours, and a whole lot more tv work. Funny to see him on Iron Chef, and even funnier to see him to doing commercials for Welch's grape juice. Even funnier to see him 50 lbs lighter than he was, thanks to his new diet.

The new book is the second volume in his Good Eats series, taken from his long-running show on the Food Network. I've always preferred his crazy act, dressing up and playing out for the camera, and there's a lot of that in the book.

Humming Along

2010-11-30T06:50:00.000-08:00

Imagine my surprise to find the Anchor Steam Humming Ale on tap last night at one of my local watering holes in Sunnyside. First brewed in 2009, Humming Ale is a hoppy pale ale with lots of fruit and citrus, and not quite as carbonated as Anchor Steam or Anchor Liberty. By the way, I have learned that humming is an ancient term, used centuries ago to describe both ales and beers. Although its origins are unclear mystery, it suits this refreshing ale. Kudos to Bar 43 for bringing it in!

JOHNNY'S HALF SHELL in Washington DC

2010-09-09T13:11:00.001-07:00

The newly located Johnny's Half Shell near Capitol Hill now ranks among my favorite spots in Washington DC. They combine Chesapeake Bay and Gulf Coast influences for an inspired menu. I had lunch at the bar on a sunny afternoon in August and it was just about perfect - Maryland crab cake followed by shrimp and grits with a cold Anchor Steam. My companion ordered the fried shrimp 'po boy - half order is plenty - and it was delicious. The menu is gigantic and features oysters and wide variety of seafood specialties: grilled halibut, Mississippi catfish, fritto misto, and Chesapeake boulliabaise. Great music, too: jazz and blues from the 40s and 50s. Big, beautiful space with a huge dining room and two terraced areas. Johnny's Half Shell is the bomb. 400 North Capitol St. N.W.

PARC BISTRO in Philadelphia

2010-08-24T11:59:00.000-07:00

Finally made it to Stephen Starr's homage to the chic brasseries of Paris, Parc Bistro on Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia. Well, my first impression was that is really more of an homage to Keith McNally's bustling French bistros in Manhattan, because the decor and vibe is essentially identical. The menu - and I am not complaining - was the same as Balthazar or Pastis in New York.

I arrived for Sunday brunch and the dining room was jam packed. I got a seat at the bar and ordered a French 75 cocktail and immediately struck up a conversation with a very nice guy about baseball. Unfortunately the bar staff was not so friendly, and the service was genuinely poor throughout my stay. Too busy to be attentive. But the food was superb - French onion soup to begin. My entire was steak and eggs off the brunch menu: petite filet, mornay sauce, crisp slices of french bread, and two perfectly cooked eggs, sunnyside up. Every bite was absolutely delicious. Unfortunately, as the service continued to falter, the overall experience at Parc Bistro did, too. It is really shame, and I hope that will be reversed on my next visit.

Cumberland Sausages from Myers of Keswick

2010-08-13T07:21:00.000-07:00

Myers of Keswick is one of great culinary treasures of Manhattan. It's been open for twenty-five years now on Hudson Street, between Horatio and Jane. It's a traditional English grocery store with great selection of imported products, everything from tea and biscuits to mustard and Marmite. It is also a butcher shop, serving pork pies, sausages, cornish pasties, scotch eggs, and shepherd's pies. The English and Irish cheese selection is also excellent.

The homemade Cumberland sausages are absolutely to die for. A specialty of the Lake District in England and made fresh daily in the shop, the meat is pork, and seasonings are prepared from a variety of spices and herbs, though the flavor palate is commonly dominated by pepper, both black and white, in contrast to the more herb-dominated flavors of sausage varieties. I served them with mashed potatoes and currried beans, and they're a treat for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Myers and Keswick also serves them wrapped in puff pastry as a sausage roll, and they're just too good to be true.

A Kentucky Gentleman Named George T. Stagg

2010-08-02T12:36:00.000-07:00

This amazing bourbon, uncut and unfiltered, is heaven in a glass. Rumor has it that it is not allowed on airplanes due to flammability issues - it's 141.8 proof. Made by the historic Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky, George T. Stagg ($75) just might be best bourbon I’ve ever had. I've only seen it in a retail store once - I bought it - and it is only found in restaurants and bars that specialize in high-end bourbon.

The first sip is a scorcher, but it slowly unravels in wave after wave of complexity. I drank my first sip neat, and then followed with a three fingers measure over one large ice cube. Deep, dark brown color. Some sweetness, and a long, lingering finish. This is a beauty, not to be missed when the opportunity arises.

George T. Stagg was a whiskey salesman who teamed up with the legendary E. H Taylor in the 1850s to start one of America's great distilleries. The original George T. Stagg distillery was renamed Buffalo Trace in June 1999.

Ain't Nothing in the World That I Like Better

2010-08-01T15:04:00.000-07:00

It's that time again. Heirloom tomatoes. All I do is add a pinch of sea salt and a drop of extra virgin olive oil. Nothing better. For background music, Guy Clark's classic Homegrown Tomatoes.

Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better
Than bacon & lettuce & homegrown tomatoes
Up in the mornin' out in the garden

Get you a ripe one don't get a hard one
Plant `em in the spring eat `em in the summer
All winter with out `em's a culinary bummer
I forget all about the sweatin' & diggin'
Everytime I go out & pick me a big one

Homegrown tomatoes homegrown tomatoes
What'd life be without homegrown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love & homegrown tomatoes

You can go out to eat & that's for sure
But it's nothin' a homegrown tomato won't cure
Put `em in a salad, put `em in a stew
You can make your very own tomato juice
Eat `em with egss, eat `em with gravy
Eat `em with beans, pinto or navy
Put `em on the site put `em in the middle
Put a homegrown tomato on a hotcake griddle

If I's to change this life I lead
I'd be Johnny Tomato Seed
`Cause I know what this country needs
Homegrown tomatoes in every yard you see
When I die don't bury me
In a box in a cemetary
Out in the garden would be much better
I could be pushin' up homegrown tomatoes

Terre Di Epicuro Italian Wines

2010-07-30T05:42:00.000-07:00

On a recent trip to the Wine Shop at Trader Joe's, I came across a shelf stocked with Terre Di Epicuro Italian wines, all priced at $5.99. They are all terrific, a GREAT VALUE for easy-drinking red table wine. I have tried Aglianico, Salice Salentino Riserva, and Nero D'Avola. Light in alcohol, medium-bodied, but very tasty, these are probably the best three budget-priced wines I've ever gotten at Trader Joe's.

Curiously, I got the tip from another shopper, an Italian native who was loading up his shopping cart with the stuff. With great excitement he told me that he was from the area where these wines are produced, and he could not believe how great they were. And for six bucks!

THE DOCK in MONTAUK

2010-07-19T06:31:00.001-07:00

Quite simply, the best bar in Montauk. For many years I was partial to the legendary Shagwong on Main Street, but I've had terrible luck there lately. Rude staff, bad service, worse food, and a strange cliente of undesirables at the bar has soured me on the place.

The Dock is located at the Montauk Harbor, next to Gosman's. It's a saloon and restaurant, and decorated with stuffed animals, snarky signs, and quirky conversation pieces. Lights are low. One TV, in the corner, and out of sight. Music is great, and low. I love this place. The proprieter and head bartender, George Watson, is a former NYC cop and firefighter with a big attitude and even bigger wit. He loves to tell stories, trade insults, and mix it up with the mostly blue-collar crowd. The draft beer is always fresh, and every glass is chilled before the drink is poured. Every glass! I don't know of any bar alive that still does that. George's son Chris also works at The Dock in the kitchen and occasionally behind the bar. Great guy with the same sense of humor as his Dad.

The food is solid pub food with some interesting daily specials, mostly featuring local seafood. The Dock is very popular with local fisherman, so I presume what they are serving is as fresh as it can get. But The Dock is for drinking and atmosphere, and that's enough for me.

The Pleasures of Gin

2010-07-02T07:01:00.000-07:00

It's summer, and there's nothing as refreshing and satisfying as cold gin cocktails.

I'm a big fan of Plymouth Gin, but also occasionally enjoy Cork Dry Gin from Ireland and regular label Bombay. I do not like Hendrick's or Tangueray in the slightest. The ubiquitous Bombay Sapphire is smooth, but the 94 proof is a bit wicked, even for me.

Martinis aside, I love summer gin drinks. Gin and tonic, of course. Gin Rickeys, which I have been drinking lately, is a classic summertime cooler. The Rickey is easy enough: gin, lime juice, simple syrup, topped off with cold seltzer. It's a popular drink in Manhattan these days, and I love it at Wilfie & Nell's in the Village.

New to me is the Pink Gin, which I have been experimenting at home with. Three ounces of Plymouth Gin, 3-4 dashes of Angostora Bitters, shaken over ice, and served straight up. Beautiful.

The classic Gin and Tonic is perhaps the most refreshing, and best served strong (just a dash or two of tonic), and very cold. The tonic water must be from a bottle; and a drop of fresh lime is always nice. Tom Collins is blast from the past - my parents drank swimming pools full of them in those hot California summers. The Collins is essentially the same as a Rickey but with lemon juice instead of lime. Beware of those bottled mixers - they're truly nasty. Last but not least, is another drink from my California days: Gin and real lemonade. Drink the first one with nothing else, but afterward, a splash of club soda helps cut the sweetness. Cheers, it's summer!

Capital Consumption: Eating and Drinking in Washington DC

2010-06-28T09:53:00.001-07:00

Just back from a weekend in Washington DC, where I revisited some of my favorite spots. Number one on the list has got to be the Old Ebbitt Grill - not for eating, not for fancy cocktails, but for ambience and atmosphere. It's been a Washington landmark since 1856, and to this day, it remains a classic slice of old DC. It's always full of local characters, friendly drinkers, and smart-ass bartenders. A drinker's paradise, pictured here.

I have several favorite restaurants in Washington: Vidalia being my top choice for its high-end Southern cuisine, but also DC Coast for seafood and a terrific bar menu, Bistro Bis for classic French bistro and great Sunday brunch, Georgia Brown's for Lowcountry cuisine. Although the prices have climbed over the years, Vidalia was superb this time around: I started off a perfect mint julep served in a pewter cup, followed by Vidalia’s five onion soup (duck broth, duck dumplings, cornbread croutons, $13.50), which was an explosion in contrasts. The soup is amazing, but very rich. I then devoured their famous shrimp and grits (anson mill's grits, vidalia onion, tasso ham, shellfish emulsion, $29), which is one of the reasons I keep coming back to Vidalia. Many people still rave about Jaleo, the acclaimed and popular Spanish restaurant owned by Jose Andres, and I've been many times over the years - personally, I think it's lost the magic it once had.

On this trip I made my first visit to Central, owned by celebrity chef Michel Richard and named the Best New Restaurant of 2008 by the James Beard Foundation. The food is traditional American comfort cuisine with a bit of French influence. On a busy Friday night, the room was bustling and noisy and we were seated about 15 minutes after our reservation time. At dinner, I began with a salad of iceberg lettuce and blue cheese, which was very nice, and dressed in a tangy vinaigrette instead of the traditional creamy blue cheese. My "fried chicken and mashed potatoes" entree actually came out as a boneless chicken breast fried in heavy buttermilk batter, along with similarly batter-worn chicken leg, mesculun salad, and heavily whipped potatoes. Other dishes - fish and chips, grilled salmon, burger - looked pretty good, but overall I found the menu not very adventurous, and the "modern" room boring - it had that insipid blonde-wood, IKEA-inspired decor. Next time, I'll take Citronelle. Richard's flagship restaurant in DC.

THE BRANDY LIBRARY

2010-06-23T06:37:00.000-07:00

What a fine idea. What a magnificent imbibing emporium! In this beautiful and inviting room lined with bottle-filled bookshelves, leather chairs, a long bar, and soft golden lighting, I began to think differently about libraries.

The Brandy Library, down on Moore Street in Tribeca, is an upscale lounge and bar that needs to be seen to be believed. There's a leather-bound menu showcasing the impressive list of spirits with just about anything and everything you can think of. The selection of brandy, cognac, armagnac, sherry, etc. is truly staggering - rivaling anything I have ever seen. They also have a well chosen array of more than 120 classic cocktails, a wine list, and tasting flights.

On a recent visit - my first, actually - I went straight for the cocktails ($14): Mandarin Carre (Rye Whiskey, sweet Vermouth, Mandarine Napoleon and Bitters) that will have you skipping down Bourbon Street, and a Creole Old Fashioned (Bourbon, Créole Shrubb, orange, cherry and bitters) that was an unusual twist on a classic. The cocktails came with delicious cheese gougeres, and service was friendly and prompt. Time ran out, unfortunately, but there's no question that I need to spend more time in the Library. Stay tuned.

Take Me to GOOSE ISLAND

2010-06-17T08:33:00.000-07:00

The Goose Island Brewery in Chicago is one of the top craft breweries in America, and I'm glad to see their fine beers becoming more and more available at bars and restaurants in New York and beyond. Goose Island opened in 1988, I visited the original brewpub in Lincoln Park many times in the early 90s. Since then, Goose Island has gone on to win countless awards and gained much respect in America's craft brewing community.

On a recent night in SoHo, Puck Fair held a Goose Island promotion night, with a dazzling and delicious offering of six Goose Island beers on tap. I sampled four of them: Summertime, Honker's Ale, India Pale Ale, and 312 Urban Wheat. I loved all four, with a tip of the cap to the Honker's Ale, a longtime favorite. Two other beers were also available: Pepe Nero and Mathilda, both Belgian style ales. Unfortunately, one of the most talked-about Goose Island beers, the Bourbon County Stout, didn't make the cut, but I hear it's coming around in the Fall.

Motorino Man

2010-06-14T13:35:00.000-07:00

That's me. I am still lamenting the loss of the legendary Uno Pizza Napoleotana on 12th street in the East Village, but the new occupants are doing everything they can to live up to those impeccably high standards. With the original pizza oven still in use, Motorino Pizza has taken over and are making their mark.

I've been three times now, and each time the pizza has been close to perfect. The New York Times has called it the "city's best pizza," and I'm not going to argue with that. The crust is cooked in the blazing heat of a wood fire, and emerges from the oven perfectly crisp, but also pillowy and soft. The pies come out hot and fast, so be ready to eat once your order is placed. Prices range from a $9 simple Marinara to $16-17 for the Soppresata Picante and Cremini and Sweet Sausage. The immensely popular Brussels Sprout pizza (smoked pancetta / mozzarella / garlic / pecorino) is $15, and pictured here. It is absolutely mouth-watering. Motorino is at 349 East 12th Street, near First Avenue, and open every day from 11am-midnight. Highly recommended.

At My Table: Moroccan Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

2010-06-14T06:23:00.000-07:00

I got this recipe from a Rick Bayless cookbook about six years ago, and have making it ever since. It never disappoints. The key is using really fresh parsley and lots of it. The paprika can change the flavor, too, depending if you use Moroccan paprika (medium hot), or other paprika that is smoky. Either way is fine. I serve it with fluffy mashed potatoes, but Bayless suggests rice or cous cous. Yesterday, I served a Spanish cava with this dish, but it also pairs beautifully with Ribero Del Duero or Cotes du Rhone.

Moroccan Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce
1 1/2 pounds of ground lamb
3 teaspoons of paprika, divided use
2 teaspoons of ground cumin, divided use
1/2 cup of freshly chopped parsley
1 large garlic clove
1 small onion
Salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons of tomato paste
One 15-ounce can of San Marzano diced tomatoes in juice

1. Sauce. In a food processor, combine garlic, onion, olive oil. Add drained tomatoes and tomato paste. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of paprika, 1 teaspoon cumin, and 1/4 cup of finely chopped parsley.
Process until nearly smooth. Scrape into deep skillet about 10 inches across. Set over medium heat, bring to a boil, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Meatballs. Place lamb in a a large bowl. Measure in 1 1/2 teaspoons of paprika, 1 teaspoon of cumin, a dash of salt, and half of the chopped parsely. Do not skimp on the parsely-it really contributes to the freshness. Mix or knead thoroughly to distribute flavorings throughout the meat. Roll meat into 1-2 inch balls, laying each on a plate as made. Set aside.

3. Cook meatballs and serve. Nestle meatballs into sauce in a single layer. Swirl pan gently to ensure all meatballs are covered with sauce. Set over low to medium heat with lid slighly ajar and cook 10 to 12 minutes, until meatballs are cooked through. Taste and stir in more salt if necessary. Spoon 4-5 meatballs per person on to individual plates and serve.

Gosman's TOPSIDE RESTAURANT AND BAR at Montauk Harbor

2010-06-07T11:50:00.000-07:00

I'll close this trio of Montauk posts with a salute to one of my favorite places: Gosman's Topside Restaurant and Bar at Montauk harbor. This is the view.

Topside is a small outdoor bar and restaurant atop the Inlet Cafe at Gosmans, the sprawling restaurant complex that has been a Montauk institution for over fifty years. With panoramic views of both the harbor at Lake Montauk and the Atlantic ocean, Topside is the perfect place to sit and watch boats come in and out of the harbor, and gaze out at the sea - on clear days you can see Block Island. The bar is always friendly and welcoming, appetizers are served, drinks are strong, and smoking is permitted. No children allowed. And curiously, the music is always cheerful. Outside of the bar is a long narrow area with a dozen or so tables for dining, with the same spectacular view. It's great for steamed lobster, mussels and garlic bread, baked clams, and before 5pm, there's a grilled swordfish sandwich (swordfish, avocado, & alfalfa Sprouts with a chipotle aioli) that is absolutely delicious.

No trip to Montauk is complete without sunset cocktails at Topside.

DURYEA'S LOBSTER DECK in Montauk

2010-06-02T08:58:00.000-07:00

One of the hidden gems of Montauk, Duryea's Lobster Deck is still going strong after 18 years. This remote hideway sits right on Fort Pond Bay, and has one the best viewpoints to watch a big red sun fade into the ocean. It's self-service, paper plates and plastic utensils, but the seafood is the best in town. The fresh-steamed lobsters come in several sizes - last week I had a 2-claw 1 1/2 pound lobster served with baked potato and cole slaw ($34.95). The clam chowder is also superb, as are the overstuffed lobster rolls. Duryea's is also BYO beer and wine, which is a great way to drink a good bottle of wine with dinner without spending a small fortune. I love a glass of chilled Sancerre with lobster.

Here's the scoop: Order at the take-out window (cash only), wait for the buzzer in your hand to let you know the food’s ready, pick up your tray and settle in, to the sound of waves lapping under the deck. There are 18 tables, looking out on the bay and the seagulls are perched on the ragged pilings of an old dock. The lower tables by the water are pretty rugged, completely unprotected by the wind, so dress warmly. But don't miss the chance to visit Duryea's - it's the quintessential Montauk spot.

Surf's Up: THE GIGSHACK in Montauk

2010-05-28T09:10:00.001-07:00

The Gig Shack has been open in Montauk for a few years now, and it seems to have finally come in to its own. A casual indoor/outdoor café open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 668 Gig Shack is adjecent to Herb's Deli and the legendary Shagwong on Main Street.

Inside, the wall on one side is covered in tin roofing material, the ceiling is white with blue Pollock-esque paint spatters, and the bar top is five billion bottle caps encased in resin. Surf movies play on a large screen and the decor is pure surfer chic. One of the best things about Gig Shack is that it's a family-run restaurant. The staff always friendly and cheerful; they never blink at any kind of complaint. Above all, I love the low-key vibe: on a recent Friday night, a local band of teenagers played sloppily but happily to the full restaurant and outdoor bar. No one seemed to care that they couldn't hit a note; everyone was just content to soak up the atmosphere and delicious food. Way to go, dude.

On the menu, my favorites are the fish & chips (striped bass most recently), the “Montacos,” crispy fish tacos with mango salsa and creamy slaw, and the gorgeous “Lamburginis,” lamb sliders on cheddar cheese buns with a garlicky aioli. I've also had shrimp tacos, BBQ pork empandadas, and soft shell crab BLT. There's also gelato and desserts, and a full wine and beer list. You can't miss The Gigshack when strolling around downtown Montauk - walk right in.

Here's THE SITUATION at The Summit Bar on Avenue C

2010-05-14T08:34:00.000-07:00

A new favorite:

The Situation at The Summit Bar
Afghani Raisin Infused Rittenhouse Rye, Caraway infused agave, fresh lemon, Summit Orange Bitters. This was beautifully balanced, not too bitter and not too sweet, with golden raisins as garnish. ($12). The Summit is a new find: handsome cocktail bar, outdoor patio, and one of the best places to drink on the increasingly trendy Avenue C in the East Village.

MAGGIE'S: The Real New York Gastropub

2010-05-11T12:37:00.001-07:00

Long before The Spotted Pig, and long before the current New York City gastropub craze, there was Maggie's.

This midtown institution has always been one the very best Irish pubs in Manhattan. And ever since Mark Whelan, son of the original owners, Teddy and Maggie Whelan, took over the kitchen after culinary school almost fifteen years ago, it has served outstanding, high-quality food.

The menu has plenty of steaks, pasta, and fish specialties, but I usually stick to the pub grub: steak and mushroom pie, fish and chips, lamb stew, shepherd's pie (all around $15). Best of all are the killer slow-roasted baby back ribs, which puts Blue Smoke and many other NYC BBQ imposters to shame. Another dish that I love that occasionally appears as a special is beef stroganov. The bar also has its own menu as as well, with fried oysters, potstickers, calamari, flatbread pizzas, and min-burgers.

Fair warning: Maggie's Place is a very popular after-work spot for the midtown office crowd. If you're going during the week anytime between 4-7pm, be prepared to meet a small army of suits, jostling around the bar, and talking loudly. I love Maggie's on the weekends, or after 8pm, where you can sit at the bar and enjoy proper pint.

What to Eat at Yankee Stadium

2010-05-07T11:33:00.001-07:00

Everybody loves to eat at baseball games: hot dogs, peanuts, pretzels, popcorn - they are every part of the ballpark experience as watching the game itself. Culinary standards have soared in recent years, and I've had some excellent food at A.T. & T. Park in San Francisco, Citizens Bank Park in Philly, Camden Yards in Baltimore.

At the new Yankee Stadium, my first and only choice is the superb steak sandwich (pictured) from the Lobel's concession stand at field level. It's a generous helping of USDA Prime Rib, drenched in au jus, and served on an onion brioche bun. There are small containers of excellent horseradish on the side. I always ask the server for extra rare, and they usually oblige. Fifteen bucks, but this sandwich is absolutely delicious. Lobel's of New York has been one the great butchers and meat suppliers in the city for years, and it stands far and above the other food merchants at Yankee Stadium: Carl's Cheesesteaks, Brother Jimmy's BBQ, Johnny Rockets, Moe's Southwest Grill, Famiglia Pizza, Noodle Bowl, etc., etc. One you've got your Lobel's sandwich, head over to Garlic Fries ($5), and then to the Beers of the World stand for a $11 draught beer. Enjoy the game!

A Fish Shack Named DITCH PLAINS

2010-04-26T09:28:00.000-07:00

The real Ditch Plains is a popular surf spot out in Montauk. But in the West Village, on the corner of Bedford and Downing, there's a little fish restaurant with the same name. Sleek design, tall windows, and big comfortable wooden booths - Ditch Plains is a comfortable and casual place with a "NY fish shack" menu. Nothing fancy: lobster rolls, fish & chips, oysters, shrimp salad, clam chowder, fried clams, mussels, grilled fish of the day (artic char, snapper, etc.), and even a few comfort dishes: macaroni and cheese, hot dogs, and terrific french fries. My favorite dish is the fabulous spicy calamari salad, which comes as either an appetizer or entree. It's quite spicy, with crispy calamari over a bed of radicchio and romaine ($14/19). Ditch Plains also has a decent wine list at reasonable prices, available in half bottles or bottles only, and offers a good microbrew list. Open all day (and serving brunch) from 11am to 2am.

Vino de España: Bodegas Hijos Juan Gil

2010-04-21T13:07:00.000-07:00

In southeast Spain, the relatively new wine region (1996) of Jumilla is producing some great wines, and even greater wine bargains. For several years I have been enjoying Juan Gil, which is 100% Monastrell. Selling at $15 retail, it is increasingly showing up on some of the better wine lists around New York. This is a big wine: deep purple, medium-bodied, rich and lush. A big blast of berries if you ask me, and I strongly recommend you open it and hour or so before drinking, because it's one those wines that seems to really change once the cork is pulled. Very high ratings from The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) and The Wine Spectator (or, The Wine Speculator, as I like to say). Vintages in Spain have been consistently good in recent years, and the 2007 Juan Gil should be available in most fine wine shops. Salud!

JEREMIAH TOWER COOKS

2010-04-19T13:31:00.000-07:00

I don't collect cookbooks, but I do have an overstuffed bookshelf full of them. Like most people, I rarely use more than one or two recipes from any one cookbook, but I love revisiting them for ideas and inspiration. I'll start with one especially close to my heart: Jeremiah Tower Cooks.

Widely recognized as the godfather of modern American cooking, creator of Californian cuisine, and a mentor to such rising celebrity chefs as Mario Batali, Jeremiah is one of the most influential cooks of the last thirty years. Former chef and partner at Chez Panisse and the genius behind Stars in San Francisco, JT is a dear friend, and working with him on the promotion of this cookbook in 2002 was certainly a highlight in my publishing life. We hit it off from the start, and had some memorable times (and cocktails) together. Now living in Mexico on the Yucatan Peninsula, Jeremiah spends his time scuba diving, designing houses, and living the good life. As he should.

Jeremiah Tower Cooks is full of great stories, history, recipes, and opinions on our culinary world. It is beautifully written, illustrated with paintings by Donald Sultan, and full of JT's inimitable wit, style, and intelligence. I particularly love his remembrances of the really great drinks he's had: his first gin and tonic, at the Dorcester in London, ice cold and served in Waterford crystal; six fresh margaritas on a sunny afternoon in Mexico and then lying in hammock; forgoing an after-dinner brandy in favor of a freezing cold scotch and soda; and his Sunday ritual of endless champagne after working in his garden.

I'll always remember Jeremiah drinking three huge Manhattans in the bar of the Palm restaurant in Philadelphia (I matched him with Martinis); the many bottles of Chateau La Nerthe bordeaux we drank together; the marathon lunches; the noisy argument he had with a bartender at Bar Americain about gimlets, and those complimentary tumblers of Midleton Irish whiskey we drank at the The Modern in New York (the Irish barmaid said it was "her honor" to serve us!). What golden times we had.

WILFIE & NELL in the West Village

2010-04-15T11:09:00.000-07:00

Tucked away on West Fourth Street in the Village is a superb little pub called Wilfie and Nell. It already has a reputation for a loud and raucous singles spot, but after work or early in the evening, it is a fine place to be. It's dark, lined with brick, and full of long communal tables. Nice atmosphere, no attitude - a welcoming spot.

One night I was very pleased to meet a co-owner, Dubliner Simon Gibson, who is also a partner in Sweet Afton in Astoria. Simon was friendly and knowledgeable, and we discussed the proper way to make a Sazerac, a subject I'm pretty familiar with. He made several of them for me, and listened carefully to my instructions and critique - 3 dashes of Peychaud's, not 2; a bit more simple syrup, and don't serve it too cold. A fine fellow, and he roared laughing when I told him there was no charge for the tutorial!

On other occasions, I have sampled a few of their specialty cocktails, which are well prepared, but, um, small. Most recently I tried the draught Guinness, which was quite good, and poured properly by an Englishman behind the bar. Imagine that.

I have not had any food, despite the hoopla over their "gastropub" status, but Wilfie and Nell seems to have a clue about serving simple, well-executed pub grub. Grilled Cheese sandwiches, Bacon Spinach Salad, Scotch Eggs, French Fries, Pork Sliders, Shepherd's Pie, Pigs in Blanket, etc. etc. One of these days, I'll put down my pint and pick up a fork.

My Dinner at DANIEL

2010-04-11T12:00:00.001-07:00

Daniel Boulud is a world class chef, no doubt about it. I've eaten in all of his restaurants in New York, and once had the privilege of watching him run the kitchen at a special dinner at the legendary James Beard House in Greenwich Village. It was an unforgettable experience to see a master chef at work - he literally inspected every dish before it went out to the dining room, and he ran the place with impeccable skill and style. He even came out to our table and dazzled us with his charm and intelligence. He's the real deal.

This week I had the great opportunity to dine at Daniel, his flagship restaurant on E. 65th Street on the Upper East Side. It is the city's highest ranked restaurant by Zagat, The New York Times, and 2010 Michelin Guide, and widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world.

First the good news: I absolutely loved "The Revolutionary" cocktail served in the bar - I believe it is made of Woodford Reserve Bourbon, White Creme de Cocao, White Creme de Menthe, and Absinthe, served in a highball glass over one large chunk of ice. It's one of the best new cocktails I have had this year. ($20)

It's hard what to make of the spectacular menu at Daniel. It calls itself New French, but there so many influences from all over the world, it barely resembles what most would think of as French. Everyone at my table chose the three-course prix fixe ($105).

I began with the hazelnut-crusted Maine sea scallops, served under a bed of morel fricasse and swiss chard. Cooked perfectly and presented beautifully, but not spectacular. My entree was a "Trio of Milk-Fed Pig from Quebec." Okay, a Canadian porker is all right with me. Smoked pork belly, ham, and a roasted chop: all cooked to perfection, and all totally lacking any flavor whatsoever. A huge disappointment. It was served with a terrible mixed vegetable side dish, very dry, very tasteless. Around the table, my companions remarked that most of their food (Vermont baby lamb chops, for example), were really subpar, especially considering the price. My honest feeling is that there are many French bistros or New American restaurants in New York that are serving better food. The desserts were quite good, though; I loved the chocolate and peanut butter ganache with caramel ice cream. Overall, it is hard to believe my dinner came from a four-star restaurant; it was completely forgettable.

The wine list is expansive; an encyclopedia of French wine supported by sturdy selection of international wines. We went on against the grain on this night. Our host chose two pinot noirs from California: Sea Smoke "Southing" 2007 from Santa Barabra ($150) which was truly delicious; and Loring "Clos de Pepe" from the Santa Rita Hills ($120) which was fine, but less balanced. There are some wines on the Daniel list under $100, and had I been choosing, we would have been drinking the Rhone or Languedoc offerings, which are in the $70-90 range.

The dining room at Daniel is dramatic but not all that successful: 18-foot ceilings, chandeliers, glass light boxes, and walls covered with odd paintings by the Spanish painter Manolo Valdes. Yuck. I found the room too bright, too quiet (don't recall music of any kind), and completely devoid of any kind of atmosphere. The service was okay - wine service a bit slow but our waitress was pleasant and efficient. And a strange kind of crowd - lots of tourists, tables full of businessman, a few couples constantly looking around the room - no one seemed to be having any fun. Maybe Daniel is too intimidating, but it shouldn't be, because the food simply does not deliver. My advice is to save yourself a whole lot of money (our dinner for four was $868 before tip) and go to DB Bistro Moderne or DBGB, where there's a lot more life and much tastier food.

THE RED CAT in Chelsea

2010-04-05T08:44:00.000-07:00

In the last year or so I've had the pleasure of dining a few times at The Red Cat, on 10th Avenue between 23rd and 24th Street, in Chelsea. Once a hot spot on the New York dining scene, The Red Cat has had its share of great reviews, and even published a cookbook. These days, eleven years after opening, The Red Cat feels more like a great neighborhood restaurant - superb dining at the bar, and a changing menu that reflects seasonal ingredients and a mature blending of cuisines. It's not overly ambitious or flashy, but my recent experiences there have been wonderful.

I'm very fond of the bar at The Red Cat, where they pour great cocktails, offer nice wines by the glass, and serve the full menu, along with some salty bar snacks. The bartenders have always been friendly and efficient. The same is true of the floor service - very professional and very aware.

The kitchen is run by Chef Jimmy Bradley, who is well-known in the culinary world and also the owner of The Harrison in Tribeca. It is essentially an American restaurant, with an occasional nod to Italian influences. Some of my favorite dishes are: soft-shell crab sandwich, organic roast chicken, risotto, shrimp fritters, New York shell steak, sauteed cod with paprika, and most recently, a delicious roast carnitas salad that featured crispy roast pork, jalapenos, sour cream, and tortilla strips on a bed of soft lettuce. The hamburger, served at the bar and available off the menu, is delicious, served with crispy herbed french fries. And I can not visit The Red Cat without ordering the addictive tempura string beans with hot mustard sauce.

Highly recommended for excellent American food, fair prices, and good service. No wonder why it's always busy.

The Beer List

2010-03-31T07:56:00.000-07:00

Someone asked me recently to name my five all-time favorite beers. It's pretty easy, actually, so here's the list:

Guinness Stout
Draught only. The classic dry stout, and when served fresh, properly poured, and not too cold, it can not be matched.
My favorite pint is at Kehoe's in Dublin.

Anchor Steam
World class beer and an amazingly successful hybrid of ale and lager styles. Refreshing, drinkable, and a perfect balance between hops and malt. I have been drinking this beer since college and have made the pilgrimmage to the historic brewery in San Francisco at least a half dozen times.

Anchor Liberty Ale
Bitter, hoppy, and assertive. For a long time, it was at the top of my list, and finding it on tap is always a thrill. Last I know, it is still being served at The Ginger Man and The Kinsale Tavern in New York.

Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale
A big bad barleywine, and not for wimps. Very dense, but with tremendous flavor, almost fruity. Strongly alcoholic, too. Annual vintage arrives every Spring.

Fuller's ESB
The best English strong ale. Beautiful caramel malt flavor but not too sweet. Quite good in bottles and superb on draught, where you can find it. In London, I always gravitate to the Fuller or Sam Smith pubs.

Honorable Mention: Samuel Smith Taddy Porter, Sierra Nevada Tornado Ale, Hop Devil IPA, North Coast Eye of the Hawk, Anchor Porter, Goose Island IPA, Samuel Smith Imperial Stout.

ARNAUD'S FRENCH 75 BAR in New Orleans

2010-03-26T11:05:00.000-07:00

This may be the best cocktail bar in New Orleans. It may also be one of the best cocktail bars in America. Normally I'm in residence at The Old Absinthe House on Bourbon Street, but on my most recent trip to the Big Easy, I spent some time in Arnaud's French 75 Bar. It looks like it has been around forever, but in fact has only been open since 2008. Cigars are sold and patrons are welcome to smoke. Believe me, it's been a long time since I've seen bartenders whip out their lighters to fire up cigarettes for folks at the bar. But smoking aside, the place is absolutely gorgeous. Amber lighting, soft New Orleans jazz, no television. And some of best Creole food in town is available from Arnaud's next door.

Behind the bar is mixologist extraordinaire Chris Hannah, widely regarded as one of the best bartenders in New Orleans. On my first visit last Christmas, I walked in and he was elaborately preparing an authentic Tom and Jerry - whisking away at the cream in a huge copper bowl behind the bar. I was astounded with the care and preparation he put in to it. He's a soft-spoken guy - polite, professional, and a real master at making drinks. I was lucky to get to know him after a couple of visits, and discovered that he's not only a student of spirits and cocktail history, he's a great storyteller and conversationalist. (Full disclosure: he really opened up when I brought in a fresh chocolate praline from a private party catered by Chef Paul Prudhomme).

The bar's namesake drink is the classic French 75, a refreshing blend of gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, and champagne. The French 75 is frequently made with cognac instead of gin - afterall, it was named after the French 75mm field gun, a popular weapon of World War I. Chris serves it either way.

The cocktail list is thrilling, and topping my list is the Curari.

Here's the recipe:

2 oz. rye
3/4 oz. ruby port
3/4 oz. Amaro Cora
2 dashes Regan's Orange Bitters #6

And here's Chris Hannah bringing the joy.

Cheers!

CASA MONO Delicioso!

2010-03-07T08:45:00.000-08:00

Bright and sunny Saturday afternoon in New York City. Walked around the Union Square Greenmarket and then stopped in for lunch at Casa Mono on East 17th St and Irving Place. This tiny Spanish, or rather, Catalan, spot has always been a favorite of mine, and I'm happy to say it is just as good as ever.

I began with a glass with the house Cava ($9), which was delicious paired with bacalao croquetas. Delicious, salty, and served with orange aioli. Followed shortly by duck breast with roasted sunchokes and tomatoes and lamb chops with garbanzos and harissa. Casa Mono is also doing a very unusual take on patatas bravas. Traditionally fried and served with aioli, these patatas bravas were fingerling potatoes served in whole chunks, tossed in an amazingly rich tomato sauce that was spiked with smoky paprika and garnished with a handful of thinly cut scallions. Not at all what I was expecting, but very satisfying.

New at Casa Mono these days is a selection of plates from a "whole Hudson Valley pig:" Charcuterie with Sour Puss Pickles, Crispy Pork Belly with Greenmarket Apples, Pork Croquetas with Green Tomatoes and Spicy Alioli, and Chorizo with Fabada and Horseradish. Other can't-miss items on the menu I've had in the past: Pan Con Tomate, Skirt Steak with Onion Marmelaide, Scallops with Clementines.

The tables are cramped at Casa Mono - I received four or five solid thumps in back from waiters scurrying past- but there's ample space at the bar. Service is professional and efficient - I asked about the fantastic olive oil that was served with a basket of crusty bread, and our waiter explained how it was their own Spanish blend, infused with herbs.

The magnificent wine list of Casa Mono and Bar Jamon, next door, is quite simply the best selection of vino des Espana in New York. In a city where Spanish cuisine is notoriously inauthentic, Casa Mono is the real deal. Delicioso!

Burger Bash at LURE FISH BAR

2010-03-02T11:55:00.000-08:00

My intrepid Burger Club met last night at a most unlikely spot for a great New York City hamburger: Lure Fish Bar on Mercer Street in SoHo. Little did we know that Lure's chef Josh Capon had recently won the People's Choice award at Rachael Ray's "Burger Bash" competition at Madison Square Garden last October, edging out quite a few big-name celebrity chefs. So when we discovered that this big, modern seafood restaurant had two different burgers on the menu and a specialty burger off-the-menu, we knew we were in for something good.

First, on the menu there is a Lure Style Burger - lettuce, tomato, American cheese, brioche bun. Then there is the off-the-menu surprise: the prize-winning Bash Burger ($14), a 6oz patty from Pat La Freida (premium blend), caramelized onion and bacon jam, shaved pickles, american cheese, and secret sauce on a toasted sesame seed bun. Served with french fries and 2 big fat onion rings atop the burgers. This is a seriously tasty cheeseburger, loosely packed, perfectly seasoned, and bursting with flavor.

Now when the kitchen in a seafood restaurant gets an order of seven burgers from one table, they get excited. Shortly after our order was taken, Lure's Executive Chef Josh Capon came bounding out of the kitchen to announce they were out of burgers and buns. We groaned, and he laughed: "what's going on guys?" Capon is a loud, gregarious New Yorker, and he happily boasted about the whole Burger Bash deal. But he was up to the challenge: "I'm gonna kill this for you guys!" We were promptly served, and except for one hamburger that mistakenly came with cheese, he nailed it. He appeared at the table once more, soaking up the compliments, and before he left, pointed to my burger and exclaimed "look at that: perfect!" It was indeed.

Vino Italiano!

2010-02-25T08:47:00.000-08:00

Here are two delicious Italian red wines that I've been drinking at home this winter and can heartily recommend:

Savuto Odoardi 2005
This is a full bodied, dry red wine from the Calabria region. It is delightfully complex, but also smooth and easy-drinking. Not overly fruity, there is a lovely and restrained plum flavor to this wine. Beautiful dark color as well. Savuto is a varietal and Odoardi is one of the most well-known and historic estates in Southern Italy. Tremendous value, around $15 retail, and you might be lucky to find it in selected Italian restaurants.

Ramitello Di Majo Norante 2005

From a large producer of some of Italy's greatest wine values, most notably the Di Majo Norante Sangiovese ($10). An unsual blend of 80% Prugnolo and 20% Aglianico, Ramitello is another well balanced, medium-bodied wine. Dry, spicy, and somewhat earthy, it's much better as it opens up and aerates. Around $15. From the tiny Molise region on the Adriatic coast.

Sunday Brunch at THE BLUE PIG TAVERN in Cape May, New Jersey

2010-02-22T07:17:00.000-08:00

Located in the famous Congress Hotel in Cape May, New Jersey, The Blue Pig Tavern serves one of the best versions of Eggs Benedict I've ever had. I'd had it several times in the past few years, and was delighted to see it on the Sunday brunch menu yesterday. The Congress Hall Signature Benedict ($11) is two perfectly poached eggs, served over crispy imported pancetta atop a cheddar and scallion biscuit. Topped with a white truffle hollandaise sauce. Absolutely delicious! It is served with homestyle potatoes, which are nice when they are served hot, but somehow that is a feat the kitchen has not yet mastered. There are other temptations at the Blue Pig Tavern, but trust me on this, the CH Signature Benedict is a five star dish.

Tap Room at COLICCHIO & SONS

2010-02-15T14:36:00.000-08:00

Craftsteak, once part of the 10th Avenue restaurant row with Del Posto and the short-lived John Dory, is now Colicchio & Sons. I had always liked the space in the front room - high ceilings, huge windows, long bar - and with a few changes, that front lounge has become the Tap Room. Now there's a pizza oven where the raw bar once was, 12 new taps of artisanal beer, and the televisions are gone. It retains that American big box feel, and from the bar you can see the busy West Side Highway and the Hudson River in the distance.

The Tap Room menu is superb: very well-priced, starters, main courses, and two pizza specials(both vegetarian, oddly). I ordered a specialty drink from the cocktail menu, The Pitmaster's Punch, which was an interesting concoction of Old Overholt Rye whiskey, Grand Marnier, lemon juice, and iced tea. It was light and frothy and delicious.

The selection of beer is impressive. About 25 varieties on tap, and another dozen in bottles. No big names, mostly small artisanal selections. Funny thing, though, nobody seemed to be drinking beer when I was there. The bar was busy making cocktails and serving wine, so I wonder if the Tap Room will actually draw the serious microbrew audience.

My main course, and only course that night, was the Skirt Steak with Chimichurri, Leeks, and Potatoes (pictured here). Served medium-rare to rare, it was stunning. $23. The restaurant has definitely moved away from Craftsteak's high-end steak concept with offferings of quail, baked rigatoni, roasted clams, bone marrow, and herb roasted poussin on the menu.

One other comment about the Tap Room. The music was playing in the restaurant was amazing. An eclectic mix of blues, New Orleans R&B, Americana - everything to BB King to Levon Helm to Professor Longhair to John Hiatt. The bartender told me the music was controlled by Tom Colicchio himself, straight off his personal iPod. He's got soul.

Taking a Dive: THE RACCOON LODGE

2010-02-10T07:27:00.000-08:00

Paid a visit to one of New York's true dive bars last night, The Raccoon Lodge, on Warren Street and West Broadway in the Financial District. Only four or five blocks from Ground Zero, it fits the description of a classic dive. Lots of animal heads on the walls, and the overall feel is kind of cross between a hunting lodge and junkyard garage. If taxidermy is your thing, this is the place.

One of the great mystery bookstores in the world, The Mysterious Bookshop, is across the street and I was there for a reading by two up and coming mystery writers from Boston. After the reading we walked in to the bar hoping to catch the last of CNN's coverage of the Saints' Super Bowl Parade in New Orleans. The staff obliged, and as we watched Drew Brees tossing out Mardi Gras beads to thousands of Saints fans on Bourbon Street, all seemed right with the world.

I ordered Bushmills ($5), and the bartender smiled widely and exclaimed "That's MY drink!" From what I observed the staff attire for ladies was skimpy tanktops with ample tattoos, frosted hair, and heavy make-up. Classic. Drinks are cheap, especially beer - cans of Pabst Blue Ribbon are $2 - and the bartender even asked if we wanted tortilla chips from the Mexican restaurant next door.

The crowd was an interesting mix of working class heroes and suits, young and old, and the mood was upbeat and friendly. No loners crying in their beer in this joint. I noticed a few bookish types from reading also wandered over and were deep in to conversation and Budweiser. My companion was sporting a black Who Dat t-shirt with gold scarf, and it brought smiles and comments from just about everyone. The Big Easy spreading a little love in The Big Apple.

The pool table cracked, video games played, and a loud jukebox pumped out rock hits from the 7os. When Journey's "Don't Stop Believing" came on, the woman next to me at the bar shouted "I fucking love this song!" She sure did. She could have added: "I fucking love this bar."

THE BRESLIN BAR & DINING ROOM

2010-02-05T06:16:00.000-08:00

The Breslin is probably one of the most talked-about restaurants in Manhattan at the moment, and it's easy to see why. Located in the Ace Hotel on 29th Street, it opened last December with the celebrated chef April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, John Dory) in the kitchen. The Breslin has been getting a lot of attention as a hip gastropub specializing in pork parts, and attracting hordes of Eurotourists, Brits, hipsters, and beautiful people. No reservations, first come first serve, and be well prepared for a long wait in a packed, standing-room only bar.

We had a bit of luck. After waiting for all members of the party to arrive, we were seated downstairs at a table for four against a bankette. Plenty of space, thankfully, which is not the case in most areas of the restaurant.

After a superb martini (Plymouth gin, straight up, olive) at the going-rate of $13, we began with the small terrine board ($25): rustic pork, rabbit & prune, duck, head cheese, liverwurst. The pork was especially good; the liverwurst and head cheese mostly forgettable. We also sampled the boiled peanuts fried in pork fat ($6): a mushy disappointment.

My entree was the Chargrilled Lamb Burger with cumin mayo and thrice cooked chips (pictured here). My expectations were sky-high, and it did not disappoint. The fries came out piping hot, perfectly crisp, and deliciously salty. The lamb burger was cooked medium-rare, and while the meat was less gamey than I expected, it was juicy and flavorful. Served on a well-toasted sourdough bun. Absolutely first-rate.

My dining companions enjoyed the Smoked pork belly with truffled mash potatoes; Beef & Stilton pie; and Herbed Caesar salad. There are many other interesting dishes on the menu for future visits: halibut a la planche; braised shin of beef; pork scratchings; scotch egg; and the stuffed pig's foot for two.

For wine I chose a Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Du Martinelles, 2007. Served slightly chilled, this Northern Rhone Syrah opened up beautifully. $49. In addition to the wine list, there's an intersting gin-centric cocktail list, a wide selection of draught beer, and two cask-conditioned ales made locally.

For all the internet babble about poor service at The Breslin, I'll say that everyone we encountered was friendly, helpful, and efficient. Our cocktail waitress sported a red mohawk hairdo and was covered in tatoos, and could not have been nicer. Our service at dinner was excellent; food arrived promptly, water glasses topped off frequently, and the waitress was always around and accessible.

An excellent experience all around and return visits are definitely in order. The brunch menu looks particularly good. I do, however, strongly recommend off-primetime hours when the crowds are more manageable.

Back to BABBO

2010-02-03T09:11:00.000-08:00

After a long hiatus of about three years, I returned to Babbo, Mario Batali's flagship Italian restaurant on Waverly Street in Greenwich Village. Busy and buzzing as always. Had a short wait at the bar, and got a table upstairs in the main dining room.

The menu is essentially the same since I first started going, with many of the signature dishes that made Babbo's reputation still being served. There are nightly specials, but I have always loved the pasta dishes, particularly the famous beef cheek ravioli.

Last night, I ordered two courses: Mint Love Letters (covered in a lamb ragu) and the Barbecued Skirt Steak with Eggplant and Salsa Verda. The Love Letters dish is essentially ravioli stuffed with fresh mint and covered with sauce. A good portion, and though the pasta was tasty and refreshing, the ragu was pretty unremarkable.The steak was beautiful, perfect medium rare, and complemented with a delicious salsa verda. No complaints. $28. My dining companion was not so fortunate. Her Warm Lamb's Tongue Vinaigrette was topped with a three-minute egg that should have been hot, or warm. It was neither, and it went back to the kitchen and off the bill. Her main course was Spaghettini with Lobster; a generous serving of lobster chunks over pasta with a light red sauce. Seemed pretty tasty to me, but companion was unimpressed.

A nice surprise on the wine list: Savuto Odoardi 2005 for $35. Delicious Italian blend (mostly Aglianico) from Calabria that I discovered at another Batali outpost, Lupa, and have been drinking at home lately. $15 retail at most NYC wine stores.

Finally, the service was a genuine disaster. No sommelier came to the table. A waiter arrived about ten minutes after we had been seated and the busboy had given us the menus. We had to wave at the floor manager to take our order, after sitting with our menus closed for far too long. Generally, what I observed was a very amateurish operation. Seemed like every table was waiting for something, and at a table nearby we witnessed a waiter spilled sauce on a woman's dress as he picked up her plate. She was not pleased. So we skipped dessert, and left for a nightcap at the bar downstairs.

Two more things about this place. First, getting a dinner reservation in a reasonable time slot is virtually impossible. You need to call thirty days in advance to the day, and then hope for something other than 5:30pm or 10:30pm. Is it worth the hassle, this silly game Babbo has played for ten years? I think not. Second, it occurred to me that Babbo's moment has passed. The crowd was older, the music more timid, and the staff uninterested. I think our lady bartender was medicated, or stoned, because she was clearly out of it. Coincindentally, the general manager of Babbo, Colum, is an acquaintance, and he joined us at the bar while we sipped our after-dinner drinks (Jameson and a Chianti). We talked of other things; not our dinner or the service, or anything related to the restaurant. Probably should have said something, lest he wonder why we never came back.