David Wondrich's OLD GUY MARTINI

I was reading a travel diary by David Wondrich, the mixologist, author, and Esquire drinks columnist, and came across his "Old Guy" martini recipe. Some times those extra dry martini's are just a bit too strong, especially if served in those big 5 oz martini glasses. Wondrich called for equal parts gin and vermouth, with a few dashes of orange bitters. Stirred and served cold. I tried it at home, and by God he's absolutely right. It looks a little orangey, but it's smooth and mild, and easy to drink. Bottoms up.

THREE for PIZZA

There are some great pizza pies in New York city, and I've been visiting some new - new to me, anyway - pizza places in the West Village.

Keste Pizzeria and Vino

On busy Bleecker Street, Keste is serving some damn good pies. Neapolitan style with a thin crust and some great toppings. I found it best to keep it simple, and avoid those daily specials with three or four toppings. (Pictured on the left - prosicutto and argula).

Artichoke Basille

A tiny little storefront outlet just opened on Macdougal Street. It can fit 3 or 4 people at the most, so it's really just a takeaway. AB has been around NYC (East Village, Chelsea) for a few years and built up a big following for their generous slices of artichoke and crab pizza. They also have Margherita and Sicilian pies. The namesake pie is huge - thick, bready, and full of a super-creamy sauce enriched with butter and wine. The artichoke and crab flavors both come through, and while these pies can be a bit heavy-handed, they are undeniably delicious.

Spunto

This no-nonsense, no-frills pizza parlor is on Carmine Street, next door to the Irish pub Mister Dennehy's. They've got a gas-fired brick oven, serve inexpensive wine and beer, and turn out a pretty nice thin crust. Most of all, there is a wide range of toppings and combinations, from the Shroomtown (portobello, shiitake, button mushrooms, white-truffle oil) to ChixPotle (chipotle chicken, pineapple, and cilantro) to Salsiccia Dolce (marinara sauce and cheese, sweet Italian sausage, caramelized onions, fresh basil). Good stuff, cheap, but nothing worth venturing out of the neighborhood for.

JOHNNY V's in Fort Lauderdale

Down in Ft. Lauderdale last week for a couple of dinners on Las Olas Boulevard. I still miss Mark's on Las Olas, the wonderful restaurant owned and operated by Mark Millitello, and that has given way to a dreadful restaurant called Solita, where the wallpaper is as bad as the food. The only nice thing I can say about that place is the rather spectacular push-up bustiers worn by the female staff.

The new star on Las Olas is Johnny Vinczencz, a renowned Florida chef, Food Network personality, and owner of Johnny V's. It's a bustling scene with a long front bar dominating the L-shaped room, with a rather tacky, unfinished back dining room. The bar scene is snazzy, with personable bartenders serving up cocktails and hefty glasses of wine from an impressive, California-centric wine list.

I started with Blue Corn Crusted Calamari, served with Spanish Sherry Aioli, Chipotle Lime Vinaigrette and a Tropical Fruit Salsa. It was excellent. For my entree, I went big: Braised Boneless Beef Short Rib, Whipped Drunken Goat Cheese Potatoes, Indiana Dan's Famous Onion Rings, Brussel Sprout Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette and Creamed Corn ($29). It was excellent, but the plate was enormous, and the food enormously rich. My companion had the Sage Grilled Florida Dolphin with Rock Shrimp Plantain Stuffing and Baby Green Beans and Carrots ($29) - cooked to perfection and beautifully served.

The menu at Johnny V's is nothing short of spectacular - completely over-the-top, to be honest. Every dish has multiple flavor combinationsand every plate is full. There's also an impressive cheese selection and flamboyant desert list.

FINE WINTER WINE: Domaine Barry Cotes du Rhone 2009

My friend and occcasional wine consultant Alan tipped me off to this amazingly good - and amazingly priced - Cotes du Rhone. Domaine Barry is the real deal - a strightforward, easy to drink, red Rhone blend -that comes with a $7.99 per bottle price tag. It's a steal, and I'm well into my second case.

What I like about this wine is its versatility. It has good fruit and on the lighter side, but also has the rustic edge that is unmistakeable in Rhone varietals. Great for before, during, and after dinner.

Oxley Classic English Dry Gin

I recently came across a new spirit: Oxley Classic English Dry Gin. It's a small batch gin, made in England, and only available in select markets in the U.S. Their gimmick is a "cold distillation process" and the use of hand selected botanicals to set it apart from many other gins on the market. It is noticeably a dry English gin but is brighter and softer than many others. Maybe a bit sweeter, too, and the juniper comes forward - I had it served in a cold, dry martini, and it was delicious. 47% alcohol, 94 proof, and it retails for around $50. Worth a try!

P.J. CLARKE'S: A New York State of Mind

After all these years, P.J. Clarke's is a classic New York saloon that just keeps getting better and better. The bar is simply one of the best in Manhattan, no question about it. But like all good watering holes, it's all about the atmosphere. P.J. Clarke's manages to draw interesting people from near and far, whether they're European tourists or locals. Yes, it's always crowded, but I always seem to find a seat somehow. The bartenders, particulary Gerry on the dayshift weekdays, and Doug in the evening, are old-school and first rate. They serve me martinis with Plymouth gin and Manhattans with Michtners Rye, and they are perfect every time. There's a full menu and big dining room in back (even an oyster bar now) but the smart money has it on the cheeseburger and french fries - truly delicious and never disappoints. The jukebox is one of the best in New York - I loved it when Sinatra or Bennett are swinging loud and proud, but when it's my turn, I'll usually play Roy Orbison, just to hear the crowd sing along. No matter how often I drop in, it never seems to be often enough.

Alton Brown Still Likes GOOD EATS

Ran in to Alton Brown at Sur La Table the other day. We worked together back in the old days at Stewart, Tabori & Chang when his first book I'm Just Here for the Food was published, promoted and eventually went on to win a James Beard Foundation Cookbook Award. Alton's profile has risen considerably since then, with more books, more tours, and a whole lot more tv work. Funny to see him on Iron Chef, and even funnier to see him to doing commercials for Welch's grape juice. Even funnier to see him 50 lbs lighter than he was, thanks to his new diet.

The new book is the second volume in his Good Eats series, taken from his long-running show on the Food Network. I've always preferred his crazy act, dressing up and playing out for the camera, and there's a lot of that in the book.