THE BRESLIN BAR & DINING ROOM

The Breslin is probably one of the most talked-about restaurants in Manhattan at the moment, and it's easy to see why. Located in the Ace Hotel on 29th Street, it opened last December with the celebrated chef April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, John Dory) in the kitchen. The Breslin has been getting a lot of attention as a hip gastropub specializing in pork parts, and attracting hordes of Eurotourists, Brits, hipsters, and beautiful people. No reservations, first come first serve, and be well prepared for a long wait in a packed, standing-room only bar.

We had a bit of luck. After waiting for all members of the party to arrive, we were seated downstairs at a table for four against a bankette. Plenty of space, thankfully, which is not the case in most areas of the restaurant.

After a superb martini (Plymouth gin, straight up, olive) at the going-rate of $13, we began with the small terrine board ($25): rustic pork, rabbit & prune, duck, head cheese, liverwurst. The pork was especially good; the liverwurst and head cheese mostly forgettable. We also sampled the boiled peanuts fried in pork fat ($6): a mushy disappointment.

My entree was the Chargrilled Lamb Burger with cumin mayo and thrice cooked chips (pictured here). My expectations were sky-high, and it did not disappoint. The fries came out piping hot, perfectly crisp, and deliciously salty. The lamb burger was cooked medium-rare, and while the meat was less gamey than I expected, it was juicy and flavorful. Served on a well-toasted sourdough bun. Absolutely first-rate.

My dining companions enjoyed the Smoked pork belly with truffled mash potatoes; Beef & Stilton pie; and Herbed Caesar salad. There are many other interesting dishes on the menu for future visits: halibut a la planche; braised shin of beef; pork scratchings; scotch egg; and the stuffed pig's foot for two.

For wine I chose a Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Du Martinelles, 2007. Served slightly chilled, this Northern Rhone Syrah opened up beautifully. $49. In addition to the wine list, there's an intersting gin-centric cocktail list, a wide selection of draught beer, and two cask-conditioned ales made locally.

For all the internet babble about poor service at The Breslin, I'll say that everyone we encountered was friendly, helpful, and efficient. Our cocktail waitress sported a red mohawk hairdo and was covered in tatoos, and could not have been nicer. Our service at dinner was excellent; food arrived promptly, water glasses topped off frequently, and the waitress was always around and accessible.

An excellent experience all around and return visits are definitely in order. The brunch menu looks particularly good. I do, however, strongly recommend off-primetime hours when the crowds are more manageable.