A Fish Shack Named DITCH PLAINS

The real Ditch Plains is a popular surf spot out in Montauk. But in the West Village, on the corner of Bedford and Downing, there's a little fish restaurant with the same name. Sleek design, tall windows, and big comfortable wooden booths - Ditch Plains is a comfortable and casual place with a "NY fish shack" menu. Nothing fancy: lobster rolls, fish & chips, oysters, shrimp salad, clam chowder, fried clams, mussels, grilled fish of the day (artic char, snapper, etc.), and even a few comfort dishes: macaroni and cheese, hot dogs, and terrific french fries. My favorite dish is the fabulous spicy calamari salad, which comes as either an appetizer or entree. It's quite spicy, with crispy calamari over a bed of radicchio and romaine ($14/19). Ditch Plains also has a decent wine list at reasonable prices, available in half bottles or bottles only, and offers a good microbrew list. Open all day (and serving brunch) from 11am to 2am.

Vino de España: Bodegas Hijos Juan Gil

In southeast Spain, the relatively new wine region (1996) of Jumilla is producing some great wines, and even greater wine bargains. For several years I have been enjoying Juan Gil, which is 100% Monastrell. Selling at $15 retail, it is increasingly showing up on some of the better wine lists around New York. This is a big wine: deep purple, medium-bodied, rich and lush. A big blast of berries if you ask me, and I strongly recommend you open it and hour or so before drinking, because it's one those wines that seems to really change once the cork is pulled. Very high ratings from The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) and The Wine Spectator (or, The Wine Speculator, as I like to say). Vintages in Spain have been consistently good in recent years, and the 2007 Juan Gil should be available in most fine wine shops. Salud!

JEREMIAH TOWER COOKS

I don't collect cookbooks, but I do have an overstuffed bookshelf full of them. Like most people, I rarely use more than one or two recipes from any one cookbook, but I love revisiting them for ideas and inspiration. I'll start with one especially close to my heart: Jeremiah Tower Cooks.

Widely recognized as the godfather of modern American cooking, creator of Californian cuisine, and a mentor to such rising celebrity chefs as Mario Batali, Jeremiah is one of the most influential cooks of the last thirty years. Former chef and partner at Chez Panisse and the genius behind Stars in San Francisco, JT is a dear friend, and working with him on the promotion of this cookbook in 2002 was certainly a highlight in my publishing life. We hit it off from the start, and had some memorable times (and cocktails) together. Now living in Mexico on the Yucatan Peninsula, Jeremiah spends his time scuba diving, designing houses, and living the good life. As he should.

Jeremiah Tower Cooks is full of great stories, history, recipes, and opinions on our culinary world. It is beautifully written, illustrated with paintings by Donald Sultan, and full of JT's inimitable wit, style, and intelligence. I particularly love his remembrances of the really great drinks he's had: his first gin and tonic, at the Dorcester in London, ice cold and served in Waterford crystal; six fresh margaritas on a sunny afternoon in Mexico and then lying in hammock; forgoing an after-dinner brandy in favor of a freezing cold scotch and soda; and his Sunday ritual of endless champagne after working in his garden.

I'll always remember Jeremiah drinking three huge Manhattans in the bar of the Palm restaurant in Philadelphia (I matched him with Martinis); the many bottles of Chateau La Nerthe bordeaux we drank together; the marathon lunches; the noisy argument he had with a bartender at Bar Americain about gimlets, and those complimentary tumblers of Midleton Irish whiskey we drank at the The Modern in New York (the Irish barmaid said it was "her honor" to serve us!). What golden times we had.

WILFIE & NELL in the West Village

Tucked away on West Fourth Street in the Village is a superb little pub called Wilfie and Nell. It already has a reputation for a loud and raucous singles spot, but after work or early in the evening, it is a fine place to be. It's dark, lined with brick, and full of long communal tables. Nice atmosphere, no attitude - a welcoming spot.

One night I was very pleased to meet a co-owner, Dubliner Simon Gibson, who is also a partner in Sweet Afton in Astoria. Simon was friendly and knowledgeable, and we discussed the proper way to make a Sazerac, a subject I'm pretty familiar with. He made several of them for me, and listened carefully to my instructions and critique - 3 dashes of Peychaud's, not 2; a bit more simple syrup, and don't serve it too cold. A fine fellow, and he roared laughing when I told him there was no charge for the tutorial!

On other occasions, I have sampled a few of their specialty cocktails, which are well prepared, but, um, small. Most recently I tried the draught Guinness, which was quite good, and poured properly by an Englishman behind the bar. Imagine that.

I have not had any food, despite the hoopla over their "gastropub" status, but Wilfie and Nell seems to have a clue about serving simple, well-executed pub grub. Grilled Cheese sandwiches, Bacon Spinach Salad, Scotch Eggs, French Fries, Pork Sliders, Shepherd's Pie, Pigs in Blanket, etc. etc. One of these days, I'll put down my pint and pick up a fork.

My Dinner at DANIEL

Daniel Boulud is a world class chef, no doubt about it. I've eaten in all of his restaurants in New York, and once had the privilege of watching him run the kitchen at a special dinner at the legendary James Beard House in Greenwich Village. It was an unforgettable experience to see a master chef at work - he literally inspected every dish before it went out to the dining room, and he ran the place with impeccable skill and style. He even came out to our table and dazzled us with his charm and intelligence. He's the real deal.

This week I had the great opportunity to dine at Daniel, his flagship restaurant on E. 65th Street on the Upper East Side. It is the city's highest ranked restaurant by Zagat, The New York Times, and 2010 Michelin Guide, and widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world.

First the good news: I absolutely loved "The Revolutionary" cocktail served in the bar - I believe it is made of Woodford Reserve Bourbon, White Creme de Cocao, White Creme de Menthe, and Absinthe, served in a highball glass over one large chunk of ice. It's one of the best new cocktails I have had this year. ($20)

It's hard what to make of the spectacular menu at Daniel. It calls itself New French, but there so many influences from all over the world, it barely resembles what most would think of as French. Everyone at my table chose the three-course prix fixe ($105).

I began with the hazelnut-crusted Maine sea scallops, served under a bed of morel fricasse and swiss chard. Cooked perfectly and presented beautifully, but not spectacular. My entree was a "Trio of Milk-Fed Pig from Quebec." Okay, a Canadian porker is all right with me. Smoked pork belly, ham, and a roasted chop: all cooked to perfection, and all totally lacking any flavor whatsoever. A huge disappointment. It was served with a terrible mixed vegetable side dish, very dry, very tasteless. Around the table, my companions remarked that most of their food (Vermont baby lamb chops, for example), were really subpar, especially considering the price. My honest feeling is that there are many French bistros or New American restaurants in New York that are serving better food. The desserts were quite good, though; I loved the chocolate and peanut butter ganache with caramel ice cream. Overall, it is hard to believe my dinner came from a four-star restaurant; it was completely forgettable.

The wine list is expansive; an encyclopedia of French wine supported by sturdy selection of international wines. We went on against the grain on this night. Our host chose two pinot noirs from California: Sea Smoke "Southing" 2007 from Santa Barabra ($150) which was truly delicious; and Loring "Clos de Pepe" from the Santa Rita Hills ($120) which was fine, but less balanced. There are some wines on the Daniel list under $100, and had I been choosing, we would have been drinking the Rhone or Languedoc offerings, which are in the $70-90 range.

The dining room at Daniel is dramatic but not all that successful: 18-foot ceilings, chandeliers, glass light boxes, and walls covered with odd paintings by the Spanish painter Manolo Valdes. Yuck. I found the room too bright, too quiet (don't recall music of any kind), and completely devoid of any kind of atmosphere. The service was okay - wine service a bit slow but our waitress was pleasant and efficient. And a strange kind of crowd - lots of tourists, tables full of businessman, a few couples constantly looking around the room - no one seemed to be having any fun. Maybe Daniel is too intimidating, but it shouldn't be, because the food simply does not deliver. My advice is to save yourself a whole lot of money (our dinner for four was $868 before tip) and go to DB Bistro Moderne or DBGB, where there's a lot more life and much tastier food.

THE RED CAT in Chelsea

In the last year or so I've had the pleasure of dining a few times at The Red Cat, on 10th Avenue between 23rd and 24th Street, in Chelsea. Once a hot spot on the New York dining scene, The Red Cat has had its share of great reviews, and even published a cookbook. These days, eleven years after opening, The Red Cat feels more like a great neighborhood restaurant - superb dining at the bar, and a changing menu that reflects seasonal ingredients and a mature blending of cuisines. It's not overly ambitious or flashy, but my recent experiences there have been wonderful.

I'm very fond of the bar at The Red Cat, where they pour great cocktails, offer nice wines by the glass, and serve the full menu, along with some salty bar snacks. The bartenders have always been friendly and efficient. The same is true of the floor service - very professional and very aware.

The kitchen is run by Chef Jimmy Bradley, who is well-known in the culinary world and also the owner of The Harrison in Tribeca. It is essentially an American restaurant, with an occasional nod to Italian influences. Some of my favorite dishes are: soft-shell crab sandwich, organic roast chicken, risotto, shrimp fritters, New York shell steak, sauteed cod with paprika, and most recently, a delicious roast carnitas salad that featured crispy roast pork, jalapenos, sour cream, and tortilla strips on a bed of soft lettuce. The hamburger, served at the bar and available off the menu, is delicious, served with crispy herbed french fries. And I can not visit The Red Cat without ordering the addictive tempura string beans with hot mustard sauce.

Highly recommended for excellent American food, fair prices, and good service. No wonder why it's always busy.