Capital Consumption: Eating and Drinking in Washington DC

Just back from a weekend in Washington DC, where I revisited some of my favorite spots. Number one on the list has got to be the Old Ebbitt Grill - not for eating, not for fancy cocktails, but for ambience and atmosphere. It's been a Washington landmark since 1856, and to this day, it remains a classic slice of old DC. It's always full of local characters, friendly drinkers, and smart-ass bartenders. A drinker's paradise, pictured here.

I have several favorite restaurants in Washington: Vidalia being my top choice for its high-end Southern cuisine, but also DC Coast for seafood and a terrific bar menu, Bistro Bis for classic French bistro and great Sunday brunch, Georgia Brown's for Lowcountry cuisine. Although the prices have climbed over the years, Vidalia was superb this time around: I started off a perfect mint julep served in a pewter cup, followed by Vidalia’s five onion soup (duck broth, duck dumplings, cornbread croutons, $13.50), which was an explosion in contrasts. The soup is amazing, but very rich. I then devoured their famous shrimp and grits (anson mill's grits, vidalia onion, tasso ham, shellfish emulsion, $29), which is one of the reasons I keep coming back to Vidalia. Many people still rave about Jaleo, the acclaimed and popular Spanish restaurant owned by Jose Andres, and I've been many times over the years - personally, I think it's lost the magic it once had.

On this trip I made my first visit to Central, owned by celebrity chef Michel Richard and named the Best New Restaurant of 2008 by the James Beard Foundation. The food is traditional American comfort cuisine with a bit of French influence. On a busy Friday night, the room was bustling and noisy and we were seated about 15 minutes after our reservation time. At dinner, I began with a salad of iceberg lettuce and blue cheese, which was very nice, and dressed in a tangy vinaigrette instead of the traditional creamy blue cheese. My "fried chicken and mashed potatoes" entree actually came out as a boneless chicken breast fried in heavy buttermilk batter, along with similarly batter-worn chicken leg, mesculun salad, and heavily whipped potatoes. Other dishes - fish and chips, grilled salmon, burger - looked pretty good, but overall I found the menu not very adventurous, and the "modern" room boring - it had that insipid blonde-wood, IKEA-inspired decor. Next time, I'll take Citronelle. Richard's flagship restaurant in DC.

THE BRANDY LIBRARY

What a fine idea. What a magnificent imbibing emporium! In this beautiful and inviting room lined with bottle-filled bookshelves, leather chairs, a long bar, and soft golden lighting, I began to think differently about libraries.

The Brandy Library, down on Moore Street in Tribeca, is an upscale lounge and bar that needs to be seen to be believed. There's a leather-bound menu showcasing the impressive list of spirits with just about anything and everything you can think of. The selection of brandy, cognac, armagnac, sherry, etc. is truly staggering - rivaling anything I have ever seen. They also have a well chosen array of more than 120 classic cocktails, a wine list, and tasting flights.

On a recent visit - my first, actually - I went straight for the cocktails ($14): Mandarin Carre (Rye Whiskey, sweet Vermouth, Mandarine Napoleon and Bitters) that will have you skipping down Bourbon Street, and a Creole Old Fashioned (Bourbon, Créole Shrubb, orange, cherry and bitters) that was an unusual twist on a classic. The cocktails came with delicious cheese gougeres, and service was friendly and prompt. Time ran out, unfortunately, but there's no question that I need to spend more time in the Library. Stay tuned.

Take Me to GOOSE ISLAND

The Goose Island Brewery in Chicago is one of the top craft breweries in America, and I'm glad to see their fine beers becoming more and more available at bars and restaurants in New York and beyond. Goose Island opened in 1988, I visited the original brewpub in Lincoln Park many times in the early 90s. Since then, Goose Island has gone on to win countless awards and gained much respect in America's craft brewing community.

On a recent night in SoHo, Puck Fair held a Goose Island promotion night, with a dazzling and delicious offering of six Goose Island beers on tap. I sampled four of them: Summertime, Honker's Ale, India Pale Ale, and 312 Urban Wheat. I loved all four, with a tip of the cap to the Honker's Ale, a longtime favorite. Two other beers were also available: Pepe Nero and Mathilda, both Belgian style ales. Unfortunately, one of the most talked-about Goose Island beers, the Bourbon County Stout, didn't make the cut, but I hear it's coming around in the Fall.

Motorino Man

That's me. I am still lamenting the loss of the legendary Uno Pizza Napoleotana on 12th street in the East Village, but the new occupants are doing everything they can to live up to those impeccably high standards. With the original pizza oven still in use, Motorino Pizza has taken over and are making their mark.

I've been three times now, and each time the pizza has been close to perfect. The New York Times has called it the "city's best pizza," and I'm not going to argue with that. The crust is cooked in the blazing heat of a wood fire, and emerges from the oven perfectly crisp, but also pillowy and soft. The pies come out hot and fast, so be ready to eat once your order is placed. Prices range from a $9 simple Marinara to $16-17 for the Soppresata Picante and Cremini and Sweet Sausage. The immensely popular Brussels Sprout pizza (smoked pancetta / mozzarella / garlic / pecorino) is $15, and pictured here. It is absolutely mouth-watering. Motorino is at 349 East 12th Street, near First Avenue, and open every day from 11am-midnight. Highly recommended.

At My Table: Moroccan Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

I got this recipe from a Rick Bayless cookbook about six years ago, and have making it ever since. It never disappoints. The key is using really fresh parsley and lots of it. The paprika can change the flavor, too, depending if you use Moroccan paprika (medium hot), or other paprika that is smoky. Either way is fine. I serve it with fluffy mashed potatoes, but Bayless suggests rice or cous cous. Yesterday, I served a Spanish cava with this dish, but it also pairs beautifully with Ribero Del Duero or Cotes du Rhone.

Moroccan Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce
1 1/2 pounds of ground lamb
3 teaspoons of paprika, divided use
2 teaspoons of ground cumin, divided use
1/2 cup of freshly chopped parsley
1 large garlic clove
1 small onion
Salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons of tomato paste
One 15-ounce can of San Marzano diced tomatoes in juice

1. Sauce. In a food processor, combine garlic, onion, olive oil. Add drained tomatoes and tomato paste. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of paprika, 1 teaspoon cumin, and 1/4 cup of finely chopped parsley.
Process until nearly smooth. Scrape into deep skillet about 10 inches across. Set over medium heat, bring to a boil, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Meatballs. Place lamb in a a large bowl. Measure in 1 1/2 teaspoons of paprika, 1 teaspoon of cumin, a dash of salt, and half of the chopped parsely. Do not skimp on the parsely-it really contributes to the freshness. Mix or knead thoroughly to distribute flavorings throughout the meat. Roll meat into 1-2 inch balls, laying each on a plate as made. Set aside.

3. Cook meatballs and serve. Nestle meatballs into sauce in a single layer. Swirl pan gently to ensure all meatballs are covered with sauce. Set over low to medium heat with lid slighly ajar and cook 10 to 12 minutes, until meatballs are cooked through. Taste and stir in more salt if necessary. Spoon 4-5 meatballs per person on to individual plates and serve.

Gosman's TOPSIDE RESTAURANT AND BAR at Montauk Harbor

I'll close this trio of Montauk posts with a salute to one of my favorite places: Gosman's Topside Restaurant and Bar at Montauk harbor. This is the view.

Topside is a small outdoor bar and restaurant atop the Inlet Cafe at Gosmans, the sprawling restaurant complex that has been a Montauk institution for over fifty years. With panoramic views of both the harbor at Lake Montauk and the Atlantic ocean, Topside is the perfect place to sit and watch boats come in and out of the harbor, and gaze out at the sea - on clear days you can see Block Island. The bar is always friendly and welcoming, appetizers are served, drinks are strong, and smoking is permitted. No children allowed. And curiously, the music is always cheerful. Outside of the bar is a long narrow area with a dozen or so tables for dining, with the same spectacular view. It's great for steamed lobster, mussels and garlic bread, baked clams, and before 5pm, there's a grilled swordfish sandwich (swordfish, avocado, & alfalfa Sprouts with a chipotle aioli) that is absolutely delicious.

No trip to Montauk is complete without sunset cocktails at Topside.

DURYEA'S LOBSTER DECK in Montauk

One of the hidden gems of Montauk, Duryea's Lobster Deck is still going strong after 18 years. This remote hideway sits right on Fort Pond Bay, and has one the best viewpoints to watch a big red sun fade into the ocean. It's self-service, paper plates and plastic utensils, but the seafood is the best in town. The fresh-steamed lobsters come in several sizes - last week I had a 2-claw 1 1/2 pound lobster served with baked potato and cole slaw ($34.95). The clam chowder is also superb, as are the overstuffed lobster rolls. Duryea's is also BYO beer and wine, which is a great way to drink a good bottle of wine with dinner without spending a small fortune. I love a glass of chilled Sancerre with lobster.

Here's the scoop: Order at the take-out window (cash only), wait for the buzzer in your hand to let you know the food’s ready, pick up your tray and settle in, to the sound of waves lapping under the deck. There are 18 tables, looking out on the bay and the seagulls are perched on the ragged pilings of an old dock. The lower tables by the water are pretty rugged, completely unprotected by the wind, so dress warmly. But don't miss the chance to visit Duryea's - it's the quintessential Montauk spot.