WILFIE & NELL in the West Village

Tucked away on West Fourth Street in the Village is a superb little pub called Wilfie and Nell. It already has a reputation for a loud and raucous singles spot, but after work or early in the evening, it is a fine place to be. It's dark, lined with brick, and full of long communal tables. Nice atmosphere, no attitude - a welcoming spot.

One night I was very pleased to meet a co-owner, Dubliner Simon Gibson, who is also a partner in Sweet Afton in Astoria. Simon was friendly and knowledgeable, and we discussed the proper way to make a Sazerac, a subject I'm pretty familiar with. He made several of them for me, and listened carefully to my instructions and critique - 3 dashes of Peychaud's, not 2; a bit more simple syrup, and don't serve it too cold. A fine fellow, and he roared laughing when I told him there was no charge for the tutorial!

On other occasions, I have sampled a few of their specialty cocktails, which are well prepared, but, um, small. Most recently I tried the draught Guinness, which was quite good, and poured properly by an Englishman behind the bar. Imagine that.

I have not had any food, despite the hoopla over their "gastropub" status, but Wilfie and Nell seems to have a clue about serving simple, well-executed pub grub. Grilled Cheese sandwiches, Bacon Spinach Salad, Scotch Eggs, French Fries, Pork Sliders, Shepherd's Pie, Pigs in Blanket, etc. etc. One of these days, I'll put down my pint and pick up a fork.