JOHNNY V's in Fort Lauderdale

Down in Ft. Lauderdale last week for a couple of dinners on Las Olas Boulevard. I still miss Mark's on Las Olas, the wonderful restaurant owned and operated by Mark Millitello, and that has given way to a dreadful restaurant called Solita, where the wallpaper is as bad as the food. The only nice thing I can say about that place is the rather spectacular push-up bustiers worn by the female staff.

The new star on Las Olas is Johnny Vinczencz, a renowned Florida chef, Food Network personality, and owner of Johnny V's. It's a bustling scene with a long front bar dominating the L-shaped room, with a rather tacky, unfinished back dining room. The bar scene is snazzy, with personable bartenders serving up cocktails and hefty glasses of wine from an impressive, California-centric wine list.

I started with Blue Corn Crusted Calamari, served with Spanish Sherry Aioli, Chipotle Lime Vinaigrette and a Tropical Fruit Salsa. It was excellent. For my entree, I went big: Braised Boneless Beef Short Rib, Whipped Drunken Goat Cheese Potatoes, Indiana Dan's Famous Onion Rings, Brussel Sprout Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette and Creamed Corn ($29). It was excellent, but the plate was enormous, and the food enormously rich. My companion had the Sage Grilled Florida Dolphin with Rock Shrimp Plantain Stuffing and Baby Green Beans and Carrots ($29) - cooked to perfection and beautifully served.

The menu at Johnny V's is nothing short of spectacular - completely over-the-top, to be honest. Every dish has multiple flavor combinationsand every plate is full. There's also an impressive cheese selection and flamboyant desert list.