LYON BOUCHON MODERNE in the West Village

The new French restaurant in the old Cafe de Bruxelles location in Greenwich Village is classically Lyonnias, and my first visit there on Saturday night was a great success. The restaurant has been made-over, but the three-room space is still in tact, with a window-filled bar area, and a small room off the door that leads in to the main dining room. Bruxelles was showing its age in recent years and the new owners have cleaned up the place considerably, adding wooden booths and a darker interior, and classic red-checkered tables.

Lyon Bouchon Moderne serves classic bouchon fare with a few modern twists. On the menu is Soupe à l’Oignon, a Beef Brisket and Onion Soup with Marrow Jam and Sourdough Rye; Escargots with Garlic Sausage and Watercress Risotto; Diver Scallops; and Lamb Shank with White Bean Stew and Merguez Sausage. There are also nightly specials, such as the Mussels and Frites ($21), which was delectable. The appetizer special was a lovely trio of Endive, Speck, and Lyonnais cheese dip (cervelle de canut). Other dishes we sampled were a stunning brussels sprouts hash with cippolini onions and bacon(addictively superb), and pike quennelles in a lobster sauce. Next time at Lyon, however, I'll be having that Lyon Hot Dog I saw being served. It's a foot-long Brooklyn weiner with black truffle and served on a pretzel roll with sauerkraut and mustard - my mouth watered every time it passed by.

The wine list is unabashedly French, and heavy on the classic bouchon varieties, including Cotes Du Rhone and Beaujolais along. We found a delicious cru Beaujolais: Chateau de Pizay Morgon 2009 for $36, served - correctly - slightly chilled.

Lyon also has an open atmosphere - quite busy and bustling when I was there, and the French waitstaff were very professional and genial. Our waiter was terrific, and shook my hand as we got up to leave, as did the two hosts at the door. It's not so hard being nice to customers, is it? Lyon is at 118 Greenwich Ave. near West 13th St.

p.s. There's also some buzz about the monumental "Hangover Brunch" being served on the weekends, so I'll be back to Lyon in the not too distant future.