Suddenly It's Summer

It's Memorial Day 2011. A scorcher in New York City, around 92 in the shade. A lazy day if there ever was one, which was devoted to a massive pile of newspapers and stacks of new books. On the menu is Rock Shrimp with garlic, parsley, and tomatoes - sauteed in olive oil, and served with a toasted french baguette, drizzled with olive oil.

Read a great article about the Negroni being a "foolproof cocktail" in the Weekend Wall Street Journal. The key is the easy 1-1-1 ratio: equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari. Even the lamest of bartenders in the lowliest of dives can get that right. Not only is the Negroni potent, it's also very refreshing, and a cool summer cocktail.

Happy Hour at Claret

A fantastic happy hour deal is now bringing in the crowds to Claret Wine Bar on Skillman Avenue in Sunnyside. A bottle of wine and a 3-course platter of meat and/or cheese OR a plain pizza can now be had for $19.95 - Monday thru Friday, 5-7pm and on Saturdays, 3-5pm. The wines on special rotate, but most recently I had a superb Gascon Malbec from Argentina, and an interesting - and very drinkable - Pinot Noir/Shiraz from C'est La Vie Vin de Pays d'Oc from Languedoc, France. Personally, I think the selection of cheeses and meats are the way to go; as the simple plain pizza leaves a lot to be desired.

Trudy's Mexican Martini

Direct from Austin, here is my twist on a marvelous recipe for Trudy's famous Mexican Martini. It's served not only at Trudy's, but in other restaurant and bars around Austin.

2 fluid ounces tequila (Herrdaura Silver)
1 fluid ounce Cointreau liqueur
1 -2 fluid ounce Sprite
1 lime, juice of

Shake all ingredients and strain into glass rimmed with salt; add stuffed olives.

The original recipe calls for an additional splash of orange juice, but I leave it out. This a very smooth and refreshing cocktail, and goes great with guacamole and chips and loud Texas music.

LYON BOUCHON MODERNE in the West Village

The new French restaurant in the old Cafe de Bruxelles location in Greenwich Village is classically Lyonnias, and my first visit there on Saturday night was a great success. The restaurant has been made-over, but the three-room space is still in tact, with a window-filled bar area, and a small room off the door that leads in to the main dining room. Bruxelles was showing its age in recent years and the new owners have cleaned up the place considerably, adding wooden booths and a darker interior, and classic red-checkered tables.

Lyon Bouchon Moderne serves classic bouchon fare with a few modern twists. On the menu is Soupe à l’Oignon, a Beef Brisket and Onion Soup with Marrow Jam and Sourdough Rye; Escargots with Garlic Sausage and Watercress Risotto; Diver Scallops; and Lamb Shank with White Bean Stew and Merguez Sausage. There are also nightly specials, such as the Mussels and Frites ($21), which was delectable. The appetizer special was a lovely trio of Endive, Speck, and Lyonnais cheese dip (cervelle de canut). Other dishes we sampled were a stunning brussels sprouts hash with cippolini onions and bacon(addictively superb), and pike quennelles in a lobster sauce. Next time at Lyon, however, I'll be having that Lyon Hot Dog I saw being served. It's a foot-long Brooklyn weiner with black truffle and served on a pretzel roll with sauerkraut and mustard - my mouth watered every time it passed by.

The wine list is unabashedly French, and heavy on the classic bouchon varieties, including Cotes Du Rhone and Beaujolais along. We found a delicious cru Beaujolais: Chateau de Pizay Morgon 2009 for $36, served - correctly - slightly chilled.

Lyon also has an open atmosphere - quite busy and bustling when I was there, and the French waitstaff were very professional and genial. Our waiter was terrific, and shook my hand as we got up to leave, as did the two hosts at the door. It's not so hard being nice to customers, is it? Lyon is at 118 Greenwich Ave. near West 13th St.

p.s. There's also some buzz about the monumental "Hangover Brunch" being served on the weekends, so I'll be back to Lyon in the not too distant future.

LILLIE'S VICTORIAN PUB near Union Square

As we head in to the annual St. Patrick's Day wind-up in New York, time to look at a few of the newer Irish-themed pubs around the town.

Lillie's on 17th street, just west of Union Square, opened in 2009. It's a handsome Victorian room with high ceilings, an antique, carved-wood bar, and furnishings that were acquired from a Victorian mansion in Belfast. The long bar is impressive and inviting, and when the lights aren't up high, Lillie's is a very atmospheric place for a drink. The name comes from Lillie Langtry, a 19th century celebrity: "an acknowledged beauty of her era, an A-list guest, an actress, a model, mistress to the future king of England, and an inspiration for poetry and plays by Oscar Wilde."

The bartenders I met were from Ireland, and they were efficient, friendly, and in one case, quite generous. Beware of the food - this is what gives the term "gastropub" a bad name. It gets busy with an after-work crowd during the week; on the weekends it's mostly tourists and sports fans.
Good selection of draught beer (Guinness was decent), and a big selection of whiskey and spirits.

BICE on the BEACH

All the locals in Miami Beach will tell you to avoid dining on Ocean Drive. That famous stretch where all the beautiful, and not so beautiful, people gather has had its share of good restaurants, but nothing ever lasts. The old standbys are really diners: News Cafe and Front Porch Cafe. And occasionally you'll luck in to a good night at other places, Cafe Milano, for one. And worse is the aggressive hustle from all the restaurants on the street, begging people to sit down for an overpriced and dining experience.

Bice Ristorante and Cafe, part of the Bice chain, has taken over at the Hotel Victor, and I'm happy to report that it is a big bright spot on Ocean Drive. There's a dining room and bar inside, but I prefer the outdoor cafe that sits a few feet off Ocean Drive with a great view of the passing parade and the beach. The menu is mostly Italian, but with a few nods to Florida. I recently had a delicious Sunday lunch of fish and chips - $9.99 - that was perfection on a plate. The steak salad (with mango salsa) also looked terrific.

Located at 11th & Ocean Drive, Bice at the Victor is a good place to take in South Beach in all its glory. Afterall, South Beach is all about the people-watching. The patio service is prompt, and although the cocktail prices are sky-high ($19 mojitos), somehow they are worth it. One can do worse, I think, with a twenty dollar bill.

David Wondrich's OLD GUY MARTINI

I was reading a travel diary by David Wondrich, the mixologist, author, and Esquire drinks columnist, and came across his "Old Guy" martini recipe. Some times those extra dry martini's are just a bit too strong, especially if served in those big 5 oz martini glasses. Wondrich called for equal parts gin and vermouth, with a few dashes of orange bitters. Stirred and served cold. I tried it at home, and by God he's absolutely right. It looks a little orangey, but it's smooth and mild, and easy to drink. Bottoms up.

THREE for PIZZA

There are some great pizza pies in New York city, and I've been visiting some new - new to me, anyway - pizza places in the West Village.

Keste Pizzeria and Vino

On busy Bleecker Street, Keste is serving some damn good pies. Neapolitan style with a thin crust and some great toppings. I found it best to keep it simple, and avoid those daily specials with three or four toppings. (Pictured on the left - prosicutto and argula).

Artichoke Basille

A tiny little storefront outlet just opened on Macdougal Street. It can fit 3 or 4 people at the most, so it's really just a takeaway. AB has been around NYC (East Village, Chelsea) for a few years and built up a big following for their generous slices of artichoke and crab pizza. They also have Margherita and Sicilian pies. The namesake pie is huge - thick, bready, and full of a super-creamy sauce enriched with butter and wine. The artichoke and crab flavors both come through, and while these pies can be a bit heavy-handed, they are undeniably delicious.

Spunto

This no-nonsense, no-frills pizza parlor is on Carmine Street, next door to the Irish pub Mister Dennehy's. They've got a gas-fired brick oven, serve inexpensive wine and beer, and turn out a pretty nice thin crust. Most of all, there is a wide range of toppings and combinations, from the Shroomtown (portobello, shiitake, button mushrooms, white-truffle oil) to ChixPotle (chipotle chicken, pineapple, and cilantro) to Salsiccia Dolce (marinara sauce and cheese, sweet Italian sausage, caramelized onions, fresh basil). Good stuff, cheap, but nothing worth venturing out of the neighborhood for.

JOHNNY V's in Fort Lauderdale

Down in Ft. Lauderdale last week for a couple of dinners on Las Olas Boulevard. I still miss Mark's on Las Olas, the wonderful restaurant owned and operated by Mark Millitello, and that has given way to a dreadful restaurant called Solita, where the wallpaper is as bad as the food. The only nice thing I can say about that place is the rather spectacular push-up bustiers worn by the female staff.

The new star on Las Olas is Johnny Vinczencz, a renowned Florida chef, Food Network personality, and owner of Johnny V's. It's a bustling scene with a long front bar dominating the L-shaped room, with a rather tacky, unfinished back dining room. The bar scene is snazzy, with personable bartenders serving up cocktails and hefty glasses of wine from an impressive, California-centric wine list.

I started with Blue Corn Crusted Calamari, served with Spanish Sherry Aioli, Chipotle Lime Vinaigrette and a Tropical Fruit Salsa. It was excellent. For my entree, I went big: Braised Boneless Beef Short Rib, Whipped Drunken Goat Cheese Potatoes, Indiana Dan's Famous Onion Rings, Brussel Sprout Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette and Creamed Corn ($29). It was excellent, but the plate was enormous, and the food enormously rich. My companion had the Sage Grilled Florida Dolphin with Rock Shrimp Plantain Stuffing and Baby Green Beans and Carrots ($29) - cooked to perfection and beautifully served.

The menu at Johnny V's is nothing short of spectacular - completely over-the-top, to be honest. Every dish has multiple flavor combinationsand every plate is full. There's also an impressive cheese selection and flamboyant desert list.

FINE WINTER WINE: Domaine Barry Cotes du Rhone 2009

My friend and occcasional wine consultant Alan tipped me off to this amazingly good - and amazingly priced - Cotes du Rhone. Domaine Barry is the real deal - a strightforward, easy to drink, red Rhone blend -that comes with a $7.99 per bottle price tag. It's a steal, and I'm well into my second case.

What I like about this wine is its versatility. It has good fruit and on the lighter side, but also has the rustic edge that is unmistakeable in Rhone varietals. Great for before, during, and after dinner.

Oxley Classic English Dry Gin

I recently came across a new spirit: Oxley Classic English Dry Gin. It's a small batch gin, made in England, and only available in select markets in the U.S. Their gimmick is a "cold distillation process" and the use of hand selected botanicals to set it apart from many other gins on the market. It is noticeably a dry English gin but is brighter and softer than many others. Maybe a bit sweeter, too, and the juniper comes forward - I had it served in a cold, dry martini, and it was delicious. 47% alcohol, 94 proof, and it retails for around $50. Worth a try!

P.J. CLARKE'S: A New York State of Mind

After all these years, P.J. Clarke's is a classic New York saloon that just keeps getting better and better. The bar is simply one of the best in Manhattan, no question about it. But like all good watering holes, it's all about the atmosphere. P.J. Clarke's manages to draw interesting people from near and far, whether they're European tourists or locals. Yes, it's always crowded, but I always seem to find a seat somehow. The bartenders, particulary Gerry on the dayshift weekdays, and Doug in the evening, are old-school and first rate. They serve me martinis with Plymouth gin and Manhattans with Michtners Rye, and they are perfect every time. There's a full menu and big dining room in back (even an oyster bar now) but the smart money has it on the cheeseburger and french fries - truly delicious and never disappoints. The jukebox is one of the best in New York - I loved it when Sinatra or Bennett are swinging loud and proud, but when it's my turn, I'll usually play Roy Orbison, just to hear the crowd sing along. No matter how often I drop in, it never seems to be often enough.

Alton Brown Still Likes GOOD EATS

Ran in to Alton Brown at Sur La Table the other day. We worked together back in the old days at Stewart, Tabori & Chang when his first book I'm Just Here for the Food was published, promoted and eventually went on to win a James Beard Foundation Cookbook Award. Alton's profile has risen considerably since then, with more books, more tours, and a whole lot more tv work. Funny to see him on Iron Chef, and even funnier to see him to doing commercials for Welch's grape juice. Even funnier to see him 50 lbs lighter than he was, thanks to his new diet.

The new book is the second volume in his Good Eats series, taken from his long-running show on the Food Network. I've always preferred his crazy act, dressing up and playing out for the camera, and there's a lot of that in the book.

Humming Along

Imagine my surprise to find the Anchor Steam Humming Ale on tap last night at one of my local watering holes in Sunnyside. First brewed in 2009, Humming Ale is a hoppy pale ale with lots of fruit and citrus, and not quite as carbonated as Anchor Steam or Anchor Liberty. By the way, I have learned that humming is an ancient term, used centuries ago to describe both ales and beers. Although its origins are unclear mystery, it suits this refreshing ale. Kudos to Bar 43 for bringing it in!

JOHNNY'S HALF SHELL in Washington DC

The newly located Johnny's Half Shell near Capitol Hill now ranks among my favorite spots in Washington DC. They combine Chesapeake Bay and Gulf Coast influences for an inspired menu. I had lunch at the bar on a sunny afternoon in August and it was just about perfect - Maryland crab cake followed by shrimp and grits with a cold Anchor Steam. My companion ordered the fried shrimp 'po boy - half order is plenty - and it was delicious. The menu is gigantic and features oysters and wide variety of seafood specialties: grilled halibut, Mississippi catfish, fritto misto, and Chesapeake boulliabaise. Great music, too: jazz and blues from the 40s and 50s. Big, beautiful space with a huge dining room and two terraced areas. Johnny's Half Shell is the bomb. 400 North Capitol St. N.W.

PARC BISTRO in Philadelphia

Finally made it to Stephen Starr's homage to the chic brasseries of Paris, Parc Bistro on Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia. Well, my first impression was that is really more of an homage to Keith McNally's bustling French bistros in Manhattan, because the decor and vibe is essentially identical. The menu - and I am not complaining - was the same as Balthazar or Pastis in New York.

I arrived for Sunday brunch and the dining room was jam packed. I got a seat at the bar and ordered a French 75 cocktail and immediately struck up a conversation with a very nice guy about baseball. Unfortunately the bar staff was not so friendly, and the service was genuinely poor throughout my stay. Too busy to be attentive. But the food was superb - French onion soup to begin. My entire was steak and eggs off the brunch menu: petite filet, mornay sauce, crisp slices of french bread, and two perfectly cooked eggs, sunnyside up. Every bite was absolutely delicious. Unfortunately, as the service continued to falter, the overall experience at Parc Bistro did, too. It is really shame, and I hope that will be reversed on my next visit.

Cumberland Sausages from Myers of Keswick

Myers of Keswick is one of great culinary treasures of Manhattan. It's been open for twenty-five years now on Hudson Street, between Horatio and Jane. It's a traditional English grocery store with great selection of imported products, everything from tea and biscuits to mustard and Marmite. It is also a butcher shop, serving pork pies, sausages, cornish pasties, scotch eggs, and shepherd's pies. The English and Irish cheese selection is also excellent.

The homemade Cumberland sausages are absolutely to die for. A specialty of the Lake District in England and made fresh daily in the shop, the meat is pork, and seasonings are prepared from a variety of spices and herbs, though the flavor palate is commonly dominated by pepper, both black and white, in contrast to the more herb-dominated flavors of sausage varieties. I served them with mashed potatoes and currried beans, and they're a treat for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Myers and Keswick also serves them wrapped in puff pastry as a sausage roll, and they're just too good to be true.

A Kentucky Gentleman Named George T. Stagg

This amazing bourbon, uncut and unfiltered, is heaven in a glass. Rumor has it that it is not allowed on airplanes due to flammability issues - it's 141.8 proof. Made by the historic Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky, George T. Stagg ($75) just might be best bourbon I’ve ever had. I've only seen it in a retail store once - I bought it - and it is only found in restaurants and bars that specialize in high-end bourbon.

The first sip is a scorcher, but it slowly unravels in wave after wave of complexity. I drank my first sip neat, and then followed with a three fingers measure over one large ice cube. Deep, dark brown color. Some sweetness, and a long, lingering finish. This is a beauty, not to be missed when the opportunity arises.

George T. Stagg was a whiskey salesman who teamed up with the legendary E. H Taylor in the 1850s to start one of America's great distilleries. The original George T. Stagg distillery was renamed Buffalo Trace in June 1999.

Ain't Nothing in the World That I Like Better

It's that time again. Heirloom tomatoes. All I do is add a pinch of sea salt and a drop of extra virgin olive oil. Nothing better. For background music, Guy Clark's classic Homegrown Tomatoes.

Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better
Than bacon & lettuce & homegrown tomatoes
Up in the mornin' out in the garden

Get you a ripe one don't get a hard one
Plant `em in the spring eat `em in the summer
All winter with out `em's a culinary bummer
I forget all about the sweatin' & diggin'
Everytime I go out & pick me a big one

Homegrown tomatoes homegrown tomatoes
What'd life be without homegrown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love & homegrown tomatoes

You can go out to eat & that's for sure
But it's nothin' a homegrown tomato won't cure
Put `em in a salad, put `em in a stew
You can make your very own tomato juice
Eat `em with egss, eat `em with gravy
Eat `em with beans, pinto or navy
Put `em on the site put `em in the middle
Put a homegrown tomato on a hotcake griddle

If I's to change this life I lead
I'd be Johnny Tomato Seed
`Cause I know what this country needs
Homegrown tomatoes in every yard you see
When I die don't bury me
In a box in a cemetary
Out in the garden would be much better
I could be pushin' up homegrown tomatoes

Terre Di Epicuro Italian Wines

On a recent trip to the Wine Shop at Trader Joe's, I came across a shelf stocked with Terre Di Epicuro Italian wines, all priced at $5.99. They are all terrific, a GREAT VALUE for easy-drinking red table wine. I have tried Aglianico, Salice Salentino Riserva, and Nero D'Avola. Light in alcohol, medium-bodied, but very tasty, these are probably the best three budget-priced wines I've ever gotten at Trader Joe's.

Curiously, I got the tip from another shopper, an Italian native who was loading up his shopping cart with the stuff. With great excitement he told me that he was from the area where these wines are produced, and he could not believe how great they were. And for six bucks!